How far should I disassemble my Enfield before taking it to the range the 1st time?

[No4Mk1(T)]

I’m going to go with Parashooter and Peter on this one. I’m assuming that by “Irish Contract” Enfield your referring to Faz. No.4Mk.2. Unless the rifle has had the finish removed from the metalwork it should be Suncorite coated including under the woodwork and is very unlikely to have any corrosion issues to deal with. In this case it would come down to “Necessary to do” and “Want to do”. As the rifle has been fired in the past a good cleaning, fastener check and visual inspection should be all that is needed.
As an addition I have come across a few No.5Mk1’s that had the end of the band screw peened to prevent removal/loosening. If the end of the screw isn’t removed or in some way cleaned up the threads in the band will be damaged during removal. At the very least in this case your going to need a new screw to put the rifle back together and keep looking original.

[David TS]

Looks like us "If it ain't broke....." school of thought people are ahead so far

[Capt Mil Coll]

I find taking the firearms apart and putting them back together a facinating part of collecting these old WWII Battle Rifles. So guess all these experts on here are saying NEVER take any of your rifles apart further then field stripping. Of course I bet its ok for them to do it.

[No4Mk1(T)]

So guess all these experts on here are saying NEVER take any of your rifles apart further then field stripping. Of course I bet its ok for them to do it.

I think you might be reading a bit too much into some of the comments here. As usual “it’s your rifle do as you please” but as I read the question, the OP was asking what is "necessary". I too take many of my rifles apart if for no other reason than curiosity and I am in no way an expert. Just remember you can damage your collectable milsurp if you don’t disassemble/assemble it correctly (remove the forearm on your No.1Mk.III before you remove the butt stock) and stripped/buggered screw heads will have an affect on collector value.

[Fred G.]

For allmost 50 years, I've taken apart every modern rifle, musket and hand gun that I've ever owned. I learned about them that way. I've allways been able to replace missing or broken parts because I've taught myself to do so. There's no part of a rifle or pistol that I've owned, and that is in the hundreds, that I haven't familiarized myself with. I'm confortable with that. Now if you screw something up or loose a part, then it is your own fault and you should have asked about how to do it properly from somebody else who knows what to do. Read up on it and don't force anything that doesn't want to come off. There is a proceedure to all things. Knowing my way around small arms weaponry long before I entered the army didn't hurt at all. Unlike a lot of other officers, I was confortable with weapnry and their upkeep. I didn't know everything of course, but I sure didn't hesitate to find out from someone more experienced if I was stumped.

[ptf18]

Fellows: Thank you all for your input...as different as it may be. I have other Mil-Surps, Mausers, Swiss, U.S, and usually I completly tear them down for cleaning and inspecting and noting markings etc but this is the first... your correct No.4 Mk 2 Faz.... and again...from my (mis ?) understanding If I remove the forestock and buttstock I risk having accuracy problems once I reassemble the rifle.

This is what I fear the most, that I chance "upsetting" the fit of the stocks when I reassemble them to the metalwork.

Im a aircraft mechanic by trade and making things fly...safely.. and correctly is something I can do.... BUT if I risk upsetting the accuracy (what ever it may be) of this Enfield by removing stocks perhaps I should leave it alone.

The black coating (Suncorite?) has chipped off (worn off) in alot of areas. The "restorer" in me says to redo it but on the other hand if I wanted a pristene rifle I should of purchased one still in a wrap.

I think these No.4 Enfields will mke a great CMP VIntage Rifle rifle as the rear sight is an peep type and its close to the shooters eyes. It also seems finely adjustable for elevation. The bolt throw is short which is great for rapid fire stages of the CMP match.

Gee Fellows... I just dont know what to do.

The bore looks great.. 5 groove an all.

Maybe I'll give it a good cleaning without stock removal first.....

ANy suggestions about what ammo I should use to gives it its first range outing? Im leaning toward Wolf Gold as Ive used that make in my Mosin Nagants and was real happy with it.

Thoughts?

[Parashooter]

If you follow the proper procedure, you won't "upset" anything by removing and reinstalling the forestock. If you do it wrong, however, you can easily damage the wood. If you don't know the right way (which is slightly different for a Mark 2 than what you may find for a Mark 1 or 1*), then don't attempt to remove it until you have clear instructions specific to the Mark 2. You can perform all necessary function and safety inspections without disturbing the woodwork.

Practically any commercial .303 British ammo currently sold should group reasonably well from a No.4 Mk.2 in good shape. Most of them have very nice barrels and saw little or no firing before being surplussed. "Wolf Gold" is made by Prvi Partizan in Serbia and has a fair reputation for quality (OK, but not great). The same ammo can often be purchased at lower cost when marketed under Prvi's own brand.

[Peter Laidler]

Here's two examples of a tinkerer at work PTF and others who all know best. No8 rifles. They take the thing apart and set about seeing how the trigger mechanism works. Just forget about the ball bearings that they can't see until. weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee....., out they fly, to be lost in the carpet somewhere and then set about the locked grub screws and then the...... and the.......... then try to............. Then you get an email or note on the forum asking about how it should all time-up again........ Tell me about it!

Then there's those - I'm trying to think of a polite word to describe them - who start to take their nice well set-up No4 apart. Take the screws out and bands off, then the handguards, then the butt with a screwdriver that ain't the right size, then remove the fore-end and find that it's a bit of a tight fit at the rear so - what next........... I'll tell you! Just keep jiggling the fore-end cap up and down. left and right, fore and aft as the mood takes you until it starts to loosen and eventually breaks free at the rear end. Now the previously tight fitting draws have now been bruised. But not to worry, it will go back easily and the next time, it'll break free easily becase the draws have been damaged.

Pistols was another........... Using bloody pliers to remove the Vee springs and snapping them.......... Lord give me strength

PTF, listen to me and parashooter. Leave it alone and repeat after me ten times...... IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT. And if it is broke, leave it for the experts and not the enthusiastic amateurs.

That's only my opinion. And before anyone says Ah, yes, but you've got a vested business interest in saying that, then think again

[Bindi2]

Peter cold water wash face and fore arms think relaxation now count backwoods from ten, Feel better good we dont want you poping a valvue yet to much knowledge still to come. I now have more time to learn so dont pop of on me.

[ptf18]

Fellows... I'll leave the darn thing alone. I'll clean the bore real well along with the bolt. I'll clean the exterior as best I can.

I've got too many other things going without another "project" torn down. Heck I'll hardly have time to get this No.4 Mk2 to the range.

Now...back to changing brakes on the wife's car... .

Thanks all.