Stocks...

[dbarn]

Very nice Charlie. Personally I like the knot hole. It shows character, and obviously did not slow Rock-Ola down during production. Good original Rock-Ola wood is very difficult to find and would command a premium. Congrats!

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[kikokat]

Charlie, that RMC is beautiful! That one must have taken some time, but what a great result!

Thanks again for demonstrating what is possible with some otherwise pathetic looking stocks.

Sloop

[campperrykid]

Great info about a great job.
Have you run into stocks that seemed to have non-US wood putty in them ?

I encountered a Blue Sky a few years ago that seemed like it had been re-furbed as a ceremonial gun. The bottom & sides of some gouges were lined with putty. Sadly someone had ( freshly ) sanded the right side of the high wood stock between the oiler slot and the grip area -- destroying the stamp & the slogan. The only US stamp left on the the outside was in the sling well:
TRIMBLE
. . TN

ETA:
The carbine was close to like new as re-furbed.

[Harlan (Deceased)]

Very nice batch this time and great work Charlie!

Do you plan to sell them here on the WTS forum or will they go on eBay?
If they're going on eBay, what's your user name there? It would be interesting to see how they do. Good carbine stocks have become hard to find over the past few years. I know from all the time and work you do you're not making a ton of money, but it's great to see these stocks back alive again.

~ Harlan

[3ky]

Very nice wood!! They came out sweet!!

[Jim Nasium]

Charlie,
Maybe you've covered this elsewhere, but why BLO as opposed to Unboiled linseed oil?

jim

[ulflyer]

Charlie: I've been unable to find any satisfactory putty. Any recommendations?

[painter777]

Jim,
Many will have their own opinion about the BLO VS. Un-Boiled Linseed Oil.
Here's my take......
Main reason I don't care for Un-Boiled LO is it takes so long to dry.
Another is it doesn't help prevent the later effects of oxidation as well....Walnut turning black. This still happens naturally in Walnut, but is slowed down by the additives found in BLO. Oxidation of Un-Boiled LO can also show up as white flaking or crystals with age. Like a transparent white wash haze.

I like using the Boiled Linseed oil......
With BLO, I'm able to first prep and color a stock.....if coloring/staining is needed.
Then thin the BLO in a heated tank with mineral spirits. With the BLO thinned and warmed the lighter viscosity allows for better penetration. If you don't thin it, once you start warming it up.......you'll make BLO sludge. I keep it weighed down and fully submerged. Usually overnight is all thats needed to swell and fill the grain back up. You'd be surprised at how much a stock can and will shrink if not sealed or stored properly. I've had stocks that a trigger housing would almost fall thru. After sealing the fit improves greatly. Makes for a better metal to stock fit and can raise small dings and dents. I don't care for the steaming.....but know of many who swear by it.
After pulling a stock from a tank, I let it drain over it and then wipe the extra BLO off. YES, It's a sticky mess. Next after she's dried a day or so I add a couple more full strength 'Spit Coats' of BLO on the outside...more if needed. Every stock takes or accepts the oil different. Maybe depending on how much natural oil remains in it and /or how dry it was to start with.
Other advantages of BLO is that it will dry. It has transition metal compounds added to it like Japan Drier that helps it dry faster than Un-BLO and to slow down the natural Oxidation that occurs.

After the stock tells me......it's full. I buff it down with a felt pad to where it's warm to the touch. I then like to add 1 last coat of a thinned 50-50 coat of Tung Oil in a lo-gloss. It seems to add some strength to the last of the wood fibres and gives the wood a clean uniform look without having any blotchy areas. This sorta mirrors that been polished in hand look from being used. When dry that last top coat is buffed down with a felt pad soaked in clean oil. Normally the finish will appear a little to shiney for most collectors........but give it a few weeks. After all that oil cures.......they look just about right.
Using the Tung Oil full strength is a no no. You want to keep the pores open and breathing.

Sorry so long.......
Regards
Charlie-painter777

[Tired Retired]

Thanks, Charlie!!!
Now I feel like I got my Aunt Kate's secret recipe for her dutch apple pie!!!!!

[painter777]

ulflyer,
I've never found a stainable wood putty in almost 35 years of finishing wood. They (the makers of) will put everything you want to hear and see on their labels/products. but it's always the same thing...puttied areas stand out like a sore thumb. We've found that on things that have been damaged and are just too costly to replace that the puttied repair will have to be colored over with a gel type stain. Often we have to wood grain these repairs to get them to blend in. Any damage that runs across the grain and not along it will be a trouble spot.
I've been following the hard wood floor installers watching the putty mixes they use. It smells like Auto Bondo.......but blends great after they intermix a number of pre-mixed colors to get that just right match. They use this AFTER the floors have been stained.......to get the correct color match. BEFORE the first oil or sealer coat is applied.

The Floor Boys put me onto this link,
http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=296-007

I haven't tried it yet. But did notice they carried oil based paint pigment with them in case they needed to tweak a batch of putty. Best to wipe the stock with a damp paint thinner rag to see what the oiled color will look like before mixing up the putty.
I can say that it dries hard and fairly fast.

If I find out more......I'll pass it along.

HTH
Charlie-painter777