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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBS View Post
    Very good looking work !
    I renamed your washing machine.

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Lou, I really appreciate your pictures and comments regarding this type of stock repair! I haven't had a lot of woodworking experience, but what I've had, I always used typical glue like Elmer's Woodworking glue. It looks like normal Elmer's School glue, except light yellow. Is there a reason that that is inferior to epoxy? I know the Elmer's is a problem as far as resisting stain - is the reason related to that?

    Thanks again for your help!

    Mark

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  5. #13
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    Well I can only say that this glue seems to exceed carpenter's glue on many levels. I know it's used to repair boats, so it'll be very good under very wet conditions... And it is quite strong too.

    One of the tricks is to make sure the wood is as "clean" as possible. I use isopropyl alcohol to clean the wood before glueing.

    The West Epoxy comes with filler that makes it thicker when this is required, and very hard / strong when cured.

    Lou

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    Well I've been busy lately with other stuff, sorry, progress is slow...

    Here's where I am right now.

    I started on the handguard. It had two long cracks and a missing chunk.



    I decided to work on the cracks first.


    The cracks will need a few touch ups (bubble in the glue), but I'll deal with this after the chunk is repaired. I cut some wood off to have a clean section to work with. I will shape the replacement wood (soon...) and post pictures after that step is done... I know I'm not fast!


    It's a lot of work for a simple P14 rear handguard but it's fun. Plus, finding a replacement rear handguard isn't easy, for some reason!

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    Ok, I finally was able to spend some time to finish this project that has been ongoing for, what, a year now?

    Here are the last few steps.

    I cut some spare walnut to fit the hole in the handguard.


    I glued it in place, with two toothpicks acting as dowels.


    I sanded the excess wood. Here it is half way:


    And finished: Not totally happy about the toothpicks showing. I didn't aim my drill bit well enough (mind you, there was no margin for error... ok I'll do better next time!)


    Not totally happy either with the gap between the rear of the rear handguard and the forend. But I had to do with what I had in terms of spare parts, so overall, I am almost satisfied:



    So, here it is, finished, with my oldest son acting as a rifle rest for this photo shoot. Thanks to Mr. Laidlericon again, because lots of what he patiently thought me was used in this project! And thanks to many others for tips and comments and ideas


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    Lou, I think you did some great work, especially considering the condition of the material you were working with. The fit of the filler pieces to the stock and contours that you filed/sanded the filler pieces to were all exceptional. Will you stain the toothpicks to match the walnut?

    Great work!

    Mark

  10. #17
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    Thanks Mark. I did stain the toothpicks a little, but they didn't "drink" the stain as much as would have been needed. So they will be visible, albeit only to a keen eye looking from not too far away...

    The close up picture of this repair to the rear handguard doesn't really do justice to the colours, for some reason. On that picture I still needed to give a coat or two of stain; and once finished, and oiled, the wood grain on the repair is more visible than it looks on that picture! Weird.

    Lou

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    Lou, Nice job. Come on down here and repair the rest of them! Did your No.5 butt arrive safely? Brian

    P.S. I was patching Bren Mk.II butts today so you ain't alone!!

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    Lou, think the use of the dowels and toothpicks makes a better hold on your repairs. I've used this trick a time or two. Once on a 94 winchester with a chunk
    out of the stock behind the buttplate. Had to play with the stain especially on the dowels but in the end came out looking really nice. Unless you knew where the dowels were one never noticed. Good job, Frank

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    Was the stock a DP stock with holes, or were there just a couple chunks missing? I picked up a P-14 a while back that was sporterized, so I bought a DP stock off ebay, cleaned off the paint & fitted my action to it. I have a piece of walnut to fill the holes on both sides, but never got around to it. Nice job, btw.

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