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  1. #11
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #12
    Legacy Member frankderrico's Avatar
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    bob, thats not to bad. I can't tell how deep it is, but I believe you can glue it and it will almost be unnoticeable, and stronger than before. A little traction to the front and a soft jaw clamp to the side over night. I'm thinking gorilla glue. The glue will ooze out of the crack, so keep the clamps away from getting glue under them. Then a razor blade to gently remove the excess glue should do it. Lets see what Painter recomends. There is no rush getting it done, so take your time.....Frank

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    Legacy Member Donzi's Avatar
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    I would'nt use Gorilla Glue; it expands as it dries. I'd try carpenter's glue if it were me. JMHO, or course.
    Donzi

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    Brush (this works glue into the fibers of the crack to make a stronger repair) on a liberal amount of “Elmer’s Wood Glue” to both chip and stock. Place chip back in place, use sliding motion (don’t just place the chip back in place) to get wood grain to align and hold. Cover repair area with wax paper, place in “TIGHT”, well padded vice overnight. Use razor blade lightly to remove excess glue from repair area. Rub repair area with “Murphy Oil Soap”.

    Just my $.02

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    thanks all, I will try those ideas and see what happens.

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    If done properly, Gorilla-Glua, although it does expand, make the best repair.

    1.) lightly clean both sides to be glued.
    2.) Apply the Gorilla--Glue to the inside outline of both parts, slightly in from the sgde, plus a line down the center lengthwise.
    3.) Slide smaller piece into the larger making sure that the lines match. Press down and hold for about two minutes.
    4.) Using half of a Butter-bowl lid(My favorite carding device) scrape excess glue off of wood.
    5.) Clamp tightly in a wood pipe-clamp overnight.
    6.) Remove clamp and with a razor-blade lightly scrape off any excess glue. Repair will be invisiable if you do it right.

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    Dave, good advise. I have done this repair with Gorilla Glue and it does work the best. It will break anywhere but where it was glued!
    Bill Hollinger

    "We're surrounded, that simplifies our problem!"

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    Legacy Member frankderrico's Avatar
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    Bill & Dave, I agree with Gorilla Glue. I've used it several times on many different repairs with excellent results. That's the way I would go.....Frank

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    thanks all, I a going to experiment today as I just rec'd my replacement stock yesterday I am feeling more brave.

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    You only get one chance with an original

    Once it is reparked, everything is gone along with a large part of the value. Recently BQ pointed out that there are far more originals out there than are thought to be. An original with a poor finish is still worth 2-3 times what a reparked part gun would fetch. If I wanted a new fresh reparked carbine, I would find a rack grade mixmaster and ruin that. I'm not kidding when I say ruin. A fine aged patina beats a new finish every time in my world. Even regular firearms are downgraded when reblued.

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