Dog or Diamond?

[mpd1978]

First off I dont think you can go wrong with a $400 carbine in that condition, so you are off to a good start. Second, the cartouche looks real to me. I think everyone is a little trigger happy with calling something that looks good fake. This is due to the amount of fakes that are out there and showing up online all the time. Try to find as many pictures of a good one and compare them side by side before making a diagnosis of it. I have one with that era underwood cartouche, but its not at my current location, so I cant get you any pics today. Below is a website that features a nice Underwood, which has a cartouche that appears identical to yours.

M1 Carbine Underwood Stock Group

---------- Post added at 10:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 AM ----------

Also, look up into the mag well-You may see a .U. there.

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[Bill Hollinger]

Mpd, your cartouche is close but not the same. I may very well be wrong but I suspect that cartouche.

[Garandrew]

The stock just doesnt look right. Can we say for sure its a repop? No..even so, its still a great deal for the $$$$,

[LeagleEagle]

a steal at $400!

[INLAND44]

'If you can fire 30.06 in that, you really do have something. M2 stock?
Its .30 M1 carbine rounds..not .30 M1 rifle rounds. The cartouche looks fake. Mine is earlier, without the ordnance wheel, but the cannons look funny..or is it me?'

Dude; M2 Ball (.30-'06) is commonly used as a muzzle wear indicator on the Carbine.

[Garandrew]

Thats not what he said "Dude"
Ok he did add he read that somewhere. I read it too fast "Dude"

[INLAND44]

You're welcome.

[Czech]

MPD, thanks for the link. I've been studying the cartouche, and if yours is genuine, then mine is too. EVERYTHING about it is identical...spacing between the letters, proportions of letters compared to the ordnance wheel, details of the wheel, position of the periods between the letters, how the rectangle fits around the entire mess.

The photo I posted wasn't the best, had light from the side and probably had the wood at a slight angle to the lens. I can see how someone would look at the photo and wonder. But sitting here looking at the cartouche under a strong light and comparing it to yours, there is simply no difference other than the worn spot / lighter strike on the right side compared to the left side on mine.

And for all who posted, THANK YOU. This newcomer is grateful and thankful that there are so many who are willing to help.

Finally, are there any tips for how I can fill in a couple of cracks in the stock on the right hand side in the receiver area? I tried compression but one doesn't move and the other moves slightly, so I'm thinking someone tried to fix these long ago but whatever they used to fill the cracks partially fell out.

[Bill Hollinger]

MPD, thanks for the link. I've been studying the cartouche, and if yours is genuine, then mine is too. EVERYTHING about it is identical...spacing between the letters, proportions of letters compared to the ordnance wheel, details of the wheel, position of the periods between the letters, how the rectangle fits around the entire mess.

Czech, you have a very nice carbine and for the money, a steal. May I suggest you look a little closer at the cartouche. It is very easy to miss even the most subtle of things on them. I am as guilty as anyone and maybe even more than some of overlooking differences. I see some differences. I would love for Charlie to pipe in with more on this as he is our resident expert. I could be all wrong and probably am. I haven't been doing this for long

[Czech]

Thanks for weighing in, Bill. I could be wrong, and I know it's easy to overlook small differences when you don't want to see them.

The part that gets me is that if it is fake, it was unnecessary. In the sling cutout, there is a faint P U that (I believe) shows it is Underwood. If the cartouche was added later, apparently it was done by someone who didn't know a lot about M1 stocks.

Perhaps tomorrow I can get a better closeup of the markings so you guys can see them better.