A gift from a very dear friend:

[GarandMan]

Surpmil,
Are you saying the barrel is a BSA?

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Surpmil]

Surpmil,
Are you saying the barrel is a BSA?

No, just noting the differences between your LSA 1918 and the one I saw. The barrel was no doubt replaced during the early 50s FTR on the one I mentioned. I assume with the BSA piled rifles trademark on the Nock's Form, it was a commercial barrel purchased by the MoD as I don't believe that mark was put on military contract barrels.

Why the SN was one letter and five digits I don't know. Perhaps it was not a UK military contract, anyone?

I do find it interesting that LSA was making MkIII rifles with the cutoff slot in 1918, presumably while the war was still on; though perhaps it was assembled after the Armistice, or even the next year?

A nice find anyway, as LSA is the least common maker AFAIK.

[GarandMan]

People keep mentioning that the copper strips maybe missing in the draws. I have asked many time what that means and if they are missing or damaged will it damaged the rifle? Please if someone knows enlighten me and let me know what I should do. I plan on shooting this rifle unless for some reason someone thinks its unsafe.

[Son]

People keep mentioning that the copper strips maybe missing in the draws. I have asked many time what that means and if they are missing or damaged will it damaged the rifle? Please if someone knows enlighten me and let me know what I should do. I plan on shooting this rifle unless for some reason someone thinks its unsafe.

Sorry to take so long to get back to you...
Foreends made in Australia from coachwood were a little too soft on their own to withstand the recoil of the rifle. To this end, after several other things were tried, the factory started installing copper plates onto the surfaces of the foreend where the "draws" contacted. (This is the rear surface of the lugs under the receiver where the sear and magazine catch pivot.)
There was a period in 1942 when the recoil plates were not fitted to the foreends, relying on the wood only to take the recoil forces. This was only short lived as they found the foreends failing (becoming loose) far too quickly and began fitting the plates again.
A few years ago, a seemingly large supply of unissued coachwood foreends turned up on the market. They were all dated 1942 and did not have the copper recoil plates fitted. John Jovino and co in the US were known to have had a lot of them in the parts they bought from the Aust. Govt, and used them when assembling rifles from parts.
There were also a lot sold through gunshows and dealers here.
Your foreend looks to be identical in condition to those foreends, and not being original to the rifle, it's an even money bet it doesn't have the copper plates fitted. Not having them isn't unsafe, but over time the foreend will become loose (it should not be able to move forward- backward on the receiver with the triggerguard removed). When the foreend begins to loosen, it will end up being cracked along it's length by the movement around the front trigger guard screw collar- and if fitted correctly, the trigger guard does bugger all to hold it, so tightening the screw will do bugger all. The other area of concern is the rear of the foreend itself. The wood from the draws to the back can crack out completely.
Here's a link to some study on the topic. Check it out.


Milsurps - Lithgow SMLE ... Causes of Cracked Foreends

[Mk VII]

The pull-through appears to be two wrapped up together; one seems to be one of the Australian 'milk-bottle' ones.
If the forend is a coachwood one, which it may be, then the copper strips which ought to be present on the draws at the rear may be absent.

[GarandMan]

The pull-through appears to be two wrapped up together; one seems to be one of the Australian 'milk-bottle' ones.
If the forend is a coachwood one, which it may be, then the copper strips which ought to be present on the draws at the rear may be absent.

What happens if the copper strips are missing? Does it hurt to shoot it without them?

[jona]

Jovino did not mark the wood. The markings shown are maker's marks(Slazenger) and inspectors marks.