New 'Gunshow Inland' - need opinions and comments

[Johnny Peppers]

May have had a Type II band and round bolt, but appears to only updated, not re-arsenaled. I would strip the shellac of the stock, sand out the checkering, stain it and oil with linseed oil. If the bolt gauges out good, I would probably leave it and everything else as-is. Should be an excellent shooter.

The remark about the round bolt got me to thinking. I dug mine out and it does have a round bolt.

Information

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[USGI]

You guys aren't so easy to stump. "Made in Japan" is close enough! I thought the sling was through the buckle wrong, so I changed it - can't remember but I think it was before I took the pictures. The buckle is completely flat on one side and only slightly rounded on the other. I now have the flat side toward the stock. I think the "JAPAN" marked sling probably dates to the 60's or 70's, but not sure. For a time, you didn't want JAPAN on stuff, then when they started turning out quality items, it wasn't so bad. I called that sling a "repro" but I guess if it came on a Japanese built carbine, that wouldn't be accurate. Does anyone know (maybe TR?) the origin of those slings? I checked the headspace at the gun show - and it just barely starts to close on a "NO-GO." I read some threads last night that show the books are wrong about the rear sight - it's correct. Seems like I read the same thing about the bolt - I'll have to look again. I too, am thinking it just went through a depot update. Maybe just the bayonet lug, safety, and mag catch were all that were changed. Right now I'm kind of nervous about looking inside. I might need you guys' help on the hammer - I just can't make out Inland hammer markings. From the outside, the blue or black (shiny) trigger looks just like an almost new spare I have that's marked R.I. I've been debating about the checkering - could look worse after I try sanding. Actually the stock looks pretty good the way it is - just not military. I do have an "AI" marked Type 3 barrel band that I could put on, but haven't changed out parts on any of my carbines other than small internal parts because of wear or breakage. When I do open it up, I'm hoping to find a "two tone receiver" and lighter spot on the barrel where Type 2 band was located during the parkerizing. I just cleaned the muzzle and checked with an M2 Ball cartridge and got 7/32" - I think that's better than any other carbine I own. Thanks a lot for all the interest and positive comments! - Bob

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[arkshooter]

Collector's lament: Why oh why did Bubba discover shellac, varnish, sand paper and checkering tools? Why oh why does he always try to perfect perfection? I am not chunking rocks at your carbine as I have a fairly minty 03 and someone (who is unknown to me but well cussed) decided that since the metal was perfect the stock need to be sanded and varnished.

[USAFChief]

Following are my personal observations relating to in-service carbine stock finishes for those who would like to have their carbines look exactly like they did when they were still in service.

To the best of my recollection, the firing range use carbines at Lackland AFB, Yokota AB, George AFB and MacDill AFB in the 1950s/1960s had the typical original WWII as-issued style of finish: somewhat dull dark brown that resulted from their being finish sanded using relatively coarse (about 80 grit?) sandpaper and dipped in vats of raw linseed oil during manufacture, and thereafter maintained in the field by periodic application of raw linseed oil in accordance with the governing Manuals and Tech Orders. There were occasional very dark brown -- almost black -- stocks that I suspect resulted from overly zealous application of oil. I don't remember seeing any issue carbines with light brown or highly finished (shiny surface) stocks.

Here is what I remember a typical 1950s/1960s USAF issue carbine looking like:

Of course, Marksmanship Training/Qualification firing carbines underwent an enormous amount of use -- almost as much as in combat -- which meant they all had stocks with some dings, dents and scratches although -- as I believe is the case with all US Military issue firearms -- they were not abused and in general were well cared for.

[GMACC]

I inspected Inland #5315729 at an auction yesterday. I am a novice but I had a copy of Riesch with me. The metal parts all looked correct for the SN; push safety, type II barrel band etc. except it had a flat bolt. I thought that was unusual and surprised to find a similar situation on here today. The gun sold for $635. I did not get aggressive on the bidding as
someone had blued the receiver and barrel and slicked up the stock.

I did get a good deal on 580 rounds, 12 mags, 1 pouch and 2 mag dust covers. All for $92.

[Tired Retired]

The "Japan" thing was a guess based on your hint. But I would seriously do a little digging on the Howa carbines. I wonder if it came from those???? I think the checking does look a bit fancy for a USGI weapon, but it does look like a quality job. You can always save it as a "Sunday-go-to-Meeting" (or range) dress-up stock and get you another - Inlands are fairly easy to find. I think sanding down that checking may put the strength of the stock at risk. You might get away with it if it were an Winchester stock, but not an H.I. Of course, Frank or Charlie could tell you more about that. I am partial to SA walnut M-2 potbellies as shooter stocks - you may want to find one of those and see if you can get that carbine shooting.

Just my two cents...

[USGI]

I took the action out of the stock today and identified some of the parts. The recoil plate is Type 3 marked W.I. and it has the Type 2 screw with long threads. My books say that screw is wrong for an Inland. Funny thing about the screw is the head is off-center and wobbles when you turn it. Another bad thing about the stock is that even though the recoil plate shelf doesn't look compressed, it's loose in the stock and can be slid completely out. I can see where the back of the receiver has made an imprint in the wood inside the stock. With the light just right, I can see remnants of a rack number on the bottom of the pistol grip. The handguard doesn't have an ID mark, but looks a lot like a post war "4 rivet" handguard I have on another carbine. The heads of the rivets have a "brass" color to them on both handguards. The Type 5 slide has the part number on the bottom. The hammer looks like it's marked HI. The sear is Type 2, but don't see a mark on top like some of my other carbines. The trigger pull measures 7 lbs. I got a better picture of the muzzle - minus all the lint. The receiver does have a "two-tone" look to it, but I'm not sure I see a lighter area on the barrel in front of the gas cylinder - maybe it's there. Here's a link to the thread that talked about the "two-tone" receiver and the method used to parkerize the barreled receiver on the late Inlands. https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=32401 Do you guys think it's like the one in the linked thread? Thanks! - Bob

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[Bruce McAskill]

It's been through at least one rebuild for sure. The safety and magazine release were both updated and the hand guard is a commercial replacement and I'm guessing it was done when the stock was refinished. A round bolt would also be correct for it as would a type 2 barrel band.

[USGI]

Thanks for the answer on the handguard - maybe produced by one of the original GI contractors? The recoil plate screw with the long threads remains a mystery - the only information I have on them is from the Riesch book. I haven't taken the action apart yet, but have this notion that the bolt has been in the gun for a long time. I'm trying to think of a reason why it might have the earlier bolt. Maybe the owner's buddy had a carbine and they worked out a trade? Does anyone want to take a guess as to the markings on the bolt and it's internals? I might get it broken down sometime today. 'Tired Retired' wants to know about the wear lines on the bolt and if they match the receiver. Should I be looking at lines going lengthwise or around the bolt, where it turns? - Bob

[painter777]

USGI,
I'd drip some super glue on the outer edges of the wood recoil plate seat, then screw down a recoil plate with foil wrapped on the bottom to clamp the glued area until it dries. It will fix any move ment of that loose shelf.

I picked up 2 carbines about a month+ ago.
2 Carbines Today + Extras
One a W code Underwood, the other a 5,2 mil Inland with barrel date of 5-44. Type II band marked //. Rear Adj sight PI with the chisel type stake. Flat bolt AI or OI and sideways number. Gas Cylinder marked BI. N marked frt sight. Original finish shows thin spot from position of type II band sitting. I believe this barrel, receiver and bolt to be original. The trigger housing is all WRA including the stock.
I'll try to get a few pictures this weekend of the rear sight stake. Not the punch crater style, more like a triangular punched stake.

I'd have to look back thru the CC newsletters, but I believe after the use of flip sights Inland used this type stake mark before we started seeing the round crater style punch stakes. Could be wrong, but best I recall right now.

W Underwood top,
Inland bottom,


Cheers,
Charlie-painter777