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Bow..... Can I most respectfully and humbly suggest that you abide by the old maxim of 'keep it simple stupid? You could use a million and one ways to do what is a relatively simple job that relatively simple Armourers have been doing for over 100 years. But in my very limited experience in doing one or two of these relatively simple tasks, just simple hand tools is/are all you need. And by that, I mean a saw, some glue and a sharp chisel
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08-23-2013 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by
bow
Could you post a photo of your scrapers, file iron made??
As Peter Laidler
says: keep it simple! These are basically just chisels that won't do more than peel off a thin layer. Hence: "scraper". Still used for building precision machines as a final "dialing in" tool.
OT but here's some related links:
"Real" machine ways scraping tools (Way too big and expensive for the job under discussion!):
http://andersonscraper.com/Anderson-Hand-Scrapers.php
And what the pros use for dialing in lathes, mills, grinders, etc.:
http://www.dapra.com/biax/scrapers/index.html
Back on subject:
A few random ones, large, smallish, and with contours to suit particular jobs, but easily changed. (The whole nose can be considered the cutting edge, but usually only a small portion is actively shaving. Again, the nose shape depends on the job.) For draws cutting a straight nose would be best as opposed to these steel scraping examples.:
Last edited by jmoore; 08-23-2013 at 07:07 PM.
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I don't quite follow the shy away from end grain theory as it would seem to take the impact better than long grain which has the tendency to compress under stress, hence wood working mallets strike with end grain faces.
Wee bit off topic, I recently saw a custom end grain floor (like glued up blocks of square parque end grain ) it felt like you were walking on marble. Enough floor talk {*~*}
Cheers
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End grain is harder , nothing to say. But...have you ever tried to glue in two end grain piece of wood?? you can easili separate them using your fingers. If you apply glue long grain with long grain you obtain the must powerful Junction, and we must glue the wood patch to fore end. Generally speacking,fore end has longitudinal grain on his lenght.
In addition to that above , remeber that when a woodworker want to season a board, he will apply Vinavil on end grain and only on end grain surfaceses due to the pattern of long and tight wood cells: end grain is the place where moisture enter the wood.
I think that sear lugs tranfere to wood of draws only a vibration and not Mike Tyson fist so, it must be hard but it must be consistent say afetr day, whatever was the weather like.
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I have installed Brass draws with brass screws and use shim to align the barrel down the forestock.
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Copper recoil plates as far as I am aware was an Aussie thing on the Mk III Lithgows and as we did not produce any No.4's they were never fitted to them unless through the FTR process in WWII Muffett or Bruce in Oz may be able to enlighten us with more information on the matter.
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