New LB No4 Mk1

[Brian Dick]

If you steam and scrape the cuts very gently, then clean up with a few grades of sandpaper, you can all but remove them. One of the few times I'll recommend getting out the iron, scraper and sand paper. Block sand only and very gently of course. U.S. CBP slashed a Long Branch TP sniper I imported many years ago from New Zealand at LAX while inspecting it and I carefully used this method to repair the damage. I certainly hope Dalebert gets it on the range. These MoD reserve rifles were some of the finest to land on the market thanks to Interarms. I always used to shake my head at the guys who scoffed at them because of the post 1968 import markings as if they were less desirable than a No.4 imported prior to the marking requirements. As No.4's go, they were/are generally better, unculled rifles.

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[Seaspriter]

If you steam and scrape the cuts very gently, then clean up with a few grades of sandpaper, you can all but remove them. One of the few times I'll recommend getting out the iron, scraper and sand paper. Block sand only and very gently of course

This is good advice -- Brian's got so much experience. Here' a little trick I learned from restoring historic furniture that can be used on any remaining cuts in the wood: You can purchase in most hardware and home goods stores wax crayons for patching marred wood. After the steaming and sanding processes, burnish the wood with very fine steel wool. Use a magnet to remove any remaining steel wool shards. Then used mineral spirits or turpentine applied to the wood to see what color it will be when an oil is on the wood. Then, using a wax crayon rub the cut in the wood with the closest lighter color wax crayon to fill the residual slice or gouge. When applying a final stain or finish, be careful not to rub the wax out of the cut or gouge. I prefer MinWax Tung Oil applied very lightly with a nylon stocking for a final finish in this circumstance -- the MinWax Tung Oil has a low-lustre varnish added to it that adds a little hardness to the finish, giving some protection to the wax in the cut or gouge. The final result can be almost imperceptible.

[mrclark303]

Cracking looking LB, very good price too, good shooting No4's just keep going up and up here in the UK, when you think, going back 20 years ago they were virtually give away rifles!

It must be the same with WW2 M1 Garands in the states isn't it guys, I bet they fetch a good price these days too..

[Flying10uk]

I believe that I have seen "England" stamped on U.K. origin military knives imported into the U.S. as an import marking. Was "England" used on knives and "Brit" used on firearms and if so was there a reason, please? Was it only weapons imported into the U.S. that had to have the country of origin marked on the item or was it all military equipment imported into the U.S.. Thanks

[RobD]

Flying10, I may be wrong, but I believe ".303 British" refers to the calibre; "England" to the country of origin.
Rob

[Brian Dick]

The "ENGLAND" stamp that's encountered frequently on pre 1968 imports to the USA denotes the country of origin and not manufacture. Those laws were put in place in the mid 1930's if memory serves. The post 1968 U.S. import marks require the importer's business name which can be abbreviated, caliber and country of manufacture, not origin.

[Flying10uk]

Thanks for the info Brian and RobD. So in theory there should be "Canada" stamped somewhere on Dalebert's rifle being as it was made in Canada? This may of course be hidden by the woodwork.

[Peter Laidler]

The man who wielded the hammer and ENGLAND punch was from gorilla stock from what I've seen of his bayonet marking. A No5 where the grips have split and crushed the other side grip and a No7 where he's just crushed the paxolin material.........