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I use lanolin based CRC LanoCote Natural grease.
The CRC website states LanoCote is "an environmentally friendly product which exhibits superior corrosion protection and anti-seize properties. It offers outstanding, long-lasting protection in harsh conditions without compromising treated materials or harming the environment.
Blended from lanolin, CRC LanoCote is non-toxic, non-carcinogenic and biodegradable.
Lanolin is naturally hydrophobic (water-repellant) and due to its affinity to metals, CRC LanoCote forms a highly effective moisture barrier on surfaces, stays flexible and does not dry out or wash off."
It is good stuff, I can highly recommend it.
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03-07-2016 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by
mr.e moose
How about the old method of mineral jelly or in hotter climates 2/3 mineral jelly and 1/3 beeswax? I think every household has a tub of Vaseline.
I found this formula (actually 50/50 mix) in an old Enfield Armourer's manual from 1930s. I've used it extensively on the wood-to-metal interface to prevent rust on barrels. With all the chemicals in today's gun oil, wood rot is a worry over the long term (see references to M1s on CMP
). This formula helps wood from rotting as well as metal from rusting. But I wouldn't use it as a substitute for grease. The old gun adage "if it slides, grease it; if it rotates, oil it" probably still prevails.
(As a note: The 50/50 Vaseline/Beeswax is marvelous for use on old wooden drawers in antique furniture -- makes them slide beautifully)
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Thanks for all the help. I ordered the Nato code G-403 off eBay. Figured I'd use the right grease, should have enough to last my life time. It doesn't say XG-279 but has the right Nato code. Thanks again everyone.
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You've restored my faith in the common sensibilities of gun owners Yooper collector. The UK
Military have been more than happy with it for many years - from a Mini Cooper collector!
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I got my first Enfield less than 1 1/2 years ago, now I have 5, might as well treat them right. When you go to experts for advice you should listen to them.
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I'm certainly no expert Yooper cooper! But I know and see the effort that goes into the research before we put info in the Armourers bible, the EMER's and just relate that to the flock. No use re-inventing the wheel!
And while we're here, can I suggest to every forumer that you slather the stuff over all the metal parts that touch, bear or are covered by the wood. That includes the butt sockets, stock bolts, L1A1 rifle return spring tubes, Bren, the same, carrying handle internals etc etc. We used to use an old paintbrush dobbed into the tin.
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Peter,
My local suppliers can't find the actual XG -279, Or the same NATO code G 403, but I did find Castrol Braycote, which says qualified to meet NATO code G 403, so will use that!
Best as always..
Richard.
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Drop their technical place at Swindon a line. We used to go there for lectures. The chemistry of it all was a bit too yawn-yawn for a more physics minded nerd like me. But interesting. While I was involved in a mod-sports racing team (I was the engine and transmission builder - or should I say, RE-builder) I used to speak to the technical bods quite regularly as they used to give us modified diff lubricants to use/try
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