I suppose if you got the drums out you could remove the three screws that hold each of the index plates and put your super duper penetrant on the bottom of each drum "spindle" and see if you could free them off that way. If you don't put the little wee steel blocks back on the lead screws the same number of turns your zero will be wildly out and you will need to undo ye steel locking rings and turn the lead screw to something closer to zero. First make the tools...?
As one of the blessed amateurs I don't know whether the grat blocks also like to stick, but see no reason why they wouldn't given enough time, evaporation and oxidization. I'm guessing they were originally lubricated only with heavy oil as grease would perhaps if used in excess tend to get scraped off by the movement of the block and collect on the inside of the hole in the grat block the reticule sights through, perhaps impinging on the field of view? Beware of too much lubricant if doing a home refurb?
IIRC there is a single 10BA screw hole in the top side of the grat block to assist in removing it. A screw with the head cut off held in a pin vise might help remove the grat block if it will fit far enough into the scope to thread into the hole in the block.
I'll be corrected where wrong with these comments so some good will come of them! ;-)Information
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