Correct stock finish for M1903?

[MilsurpMM]

Agreed. Matching that classic red-tinged finish isn’t an immediate process. Stick with the linseed oil and it’ll look perfect *someday.*

I put a coat about 4 days ago and I let it sit. I wiped it off yesterday and it looks slightly more glossy. Should I keep repeating the process? Also do you think the finish on the rifle is original from the arsenal?

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[Brian Dick]

If you want the reddish tint that develops with age, you have to use raw linseed oil, not boiled. The boiled stuff contains chemical driers that make it much more convenient but it isn't correct and will never achieve the desired effect. It's also supposedly toxic to your hands where RLO is not.

[MilsurpMM]

If you want the reddish tint that develops with age, you have to use raw linseed oil, not boiled. The boiled stuff contains chemical driers that make it much more convenient but it isn't correct and will never achieve the desired effect. It's also supposedly toxic to your hands where RLO is not.

Well do you think the stock has an original finish from the arsenal? If that's the case I won't even bother putting linseed oil on it

[Brian Dick]

I'd say yes from the pictures. It's dry as a popcorn fart though. Get yourself a can of Crown brand raw linseed oil and give it a drink. That should be all it needs. I buy it by the gallon from Ace Hardware. If they don't have it, get them to order it for you.

[MilsurpMM]

I'd say yes from the pictures. It's dry as a popcorn fart though. Get yourself a can of Crown brand raw linseed oil and give it a drink. That should be all it needs. I buy it by the gallon from Ace Hardware. If they don't have it, get them to order it for you.

You know what? I'm gonna go pick some up today. is it the same process as with BLO? put a coat on, wait an hour, wipe off the excess oil, and let it sit for a week?

[rcathey]

The old adage (any idea on the origin, anyone?) is, "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year for the rest of your life."

[Brian Dick]

It's the same process but you don't need to put it on too thick. I like to warm the wood up in the sun and then apply it with a sponge brush. Then lightly buff it out with fine steel wool and wipe the excess with a blue paper shop towel. You can add as many coats that make you happy but expect it to be a bit tacky for a while. That's how it should be. Some mix it with turpentine but I never have. Of course, I have a hot Carolina sun to work with even in Winter if it's out of the wind.

[MilsurpMM]

It's the same process but you don't need to put it on too thick. I like to warm the wood up in the sun and then apply it with a sponge brush. Then lightly buff it out with fine steel wool and wipe the excess with a blue paper shop towel. You can add as many coats that make you happy but expect it to be a bit tacky for a while. That's how it should be. Some mix it with turpentine but I never have. Of course, I have a hot Carolina sun to work with even in Winter if it's out of the wind.

You buff it out about how long after applying?

[Brian Dick]

I buff it out while good and wet. Just work in small circular motions and you don't need to apply much pressure. Then wipe off the excess with a blue paper shop towel. Repeat as many times as you want to get your desired finish.

[Neal Myers]

Conservators at the Springfield Armory National Museum say that you don't need to oil gun stocks.

OTOH, my experience has been that long exposure to low humidity (FHA gas heat) WILL eventually dry out any wood, & cause it to crack/crumble.