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Thread: How Can I repair these scratches without refinishing the stock?

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    Legacy Member HOOKED ON HISTORY's Avatar
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    If it is in fact varnish the process Brian described will yield very good results with an original finish.
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    Advisory Panel Patrick Chadwick's Avatar
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    It's worth de-varnishing

    Search the forum for "treacle rifle" and you will find a couple of examples that demonstrate how a crudded-up rifle can be enormously improved by removing old varnish.

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    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    If this were a coffee table or stair rail I'd say use a Filler stick available at any hardware store. Amish master carpenters and Swissicon watch makers call them melted in crayons of appropriate color, but it's not so it will look ridiculous.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser1947 View Post
    is there anyway I can cover up these scratches?
    You could add multiple coats of a flat/low sheen varnish or tung oil. That will act as a clear 'filler' then fine buff the stock. But I wouldn't do it. You'll just end up high lighting the dirt/grime that accumulated in the scratched wood grain. The hardest scratches to cure are those that run across the grain.
    As already advised above, strip off the varnish. Then give the wood plenty of time to 'Breathe' which will allow some of the grain to raise. Afterward you could try spot steaming over the areas that bother you. Before applying the RLO coats, Do a light sanding with 3M Flexible Polishing Papers. Before you JUMP out of your chair.... read on- You can get these in different grades. Below a link if interested:
    3M Flexible Polishing Papers | stewmac.com


    I've used the 3M Flex Paper for years. From polishing out scratches on pocket watch cases to clear and painted finishes on factory and site built cabinets, built ins, stairway systems etc. To include wet color sanding on lacquer and clear coats. Some grits finer than the kleenex you use.

    Good luck
    Charlie-Painter777

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    Using steam is the way to go after stripping the old varnish etc, time and patience is all thats required, even without the steam as Brian mentions a bit of oil in the old wounds can reap good results.

    If it is laminated then just steam on the sides....... avoid anything between the laminations to be on the safe side.

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    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    If heat or heat and moisture are the key to undoing any glue or epoxy joint I can't see it being a good idea, but to each his own I suppose.

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    Contributing Member CINDERS's Avatar
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    maybe its stuck in a record track Charlie!

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    Excellent advice Patrick
    .303, helping Englishmen express their feelings since 1889

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    They also made a glue called Tigophilm (Tee-go-film) which the Germans used to make the laminate wooden sections for their wooden wonder a direct copy of the de-haviland mosquito of which they had a flying example in fact the Germans named the aircraft the same anyway bomber command did themselves a favor by unknowingly destroying the factory and all data where the glue was made so that put paid to a plane that would have been the equal to the Mossie and perhaps decimated the night bomber streams. Just thought I would share that bit of info

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