making a usuable 4T, I need help!please

[tbonesmith]

This happens with all the Accumout and all the Sarco mounts and brackets. Mostly the pads from Fultons are better, but it depends a lot on the bracket you are mating it to too.

Information

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[tbonesmith]

I don’t particularly think the front pad is faulty, there’s just more fitting in the whole arrangement than might be expected, and the rear pad is made small in order to shim, as opposed to large in order to machine down. On several occasions I have scrapped the supplied rear pad and machined a new one, larger from scratch as it was less work than building up the supplied item.
It’s the same story for their (Accumounts) k98 turret mounts... without serious rework they simply will not and cannot collinate... pretty surprising they keep churning them out like that but that’s how it is.

[Lou Cypher]

I don’t particularly think the front pad is faulty, there’s just more fitting in the whole arrangement than might be expected, and the rear pad is made small in order to shim, as opposed to large in order to machine down. On several occasions I have scrapped the supplied rear pad and machined a new one, larger from scratch as it was less work than building up the supplied item.
It’s the same story for their (Accumounts) k98 turret mounts... without serious rework they simply will not and cannot collinate... pretty surprising they keep churning them out like that but that’s how it is.

So, it's normal to get some arrangement to fit this pad. I'm a bit disappointed, because when I received the parts, I compared the size of the pads to the blueprints located in the library, and except that there was sometimes 0.02 inches of difference, I was confident enough to start to fit the mount. I followed strictly the Mr Laidler's article, and up to that step concerning the fitting of the rear pad, I had no problem. I'm waiting for some pics, please, Tbonesmith.

---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------

I say, when making a replica, do NOT go by the drawings. They are an ideal, the perfect theory and not 'done-it' practice. 1st and MOST important, collimate the telescope optical and mechanical axis. Mount the front pad and sweat it on. Then adjust the rear of this pad to swing the graticle to centre on the azimuth of the bore against the DAP. Lift or lower the rear pad* to suit suit what you have achieved so far. Point of grat SET TO 100 and tip on the DAP. When it's EXACT, sweat everything on using clamps. Test again. When it is perfect only THEN start drilling of doing anything that will take what you're doing past the point of no return.

That's it said very simply. There is a half decent amateur attempt by me at putting this into a readable semi technical thread somewhere too that one or two have followed simply enough. There are also true experts out there who's understanding of the optics, mechanics and optical/mechanical collimation is greater than mine. BUT whatever you (or anyone else attempting this) stick to one tried and tested idea

* If you have to make a rear pad to suit, it is quite a simple matter but Fulton make pads that are a good fit with some simple hand fitting

Your thread is very clear, no doubt, but I'm facing a situation that you don't speak about.

[Roger Payne]

It also doesn't help that the rear pad, as well as being undersized, is configured at the bottom edge to fit an 'angled ledge' receiver, like later LB 4T's, rather than radiused to fit a 'radiused ledge' receiver, as were the vast majority of 4T's (all UK set up & the earlier Canadian examples). A radiused bottom will need some degree of fitting but generally, so long as it's fitted to a radiused receiver ledge will 'find' its place without requiring too much, & will sit pretty well aligned with the horizontal line of the rear sight bed. But again, this assumes the rear pad has been produced to the original specs. I have only ever fitted genuine pads, the pads made by my late machinist, & those sold by Fultons, & have never found any problems with any of them, beyond what one would normally expect to encounter in doing a job like this.

[Peter Laidler]

I say, when making a replica, do NOT go by the drawings. They are an ideal, the perfect theory and not 'done-it' practice. 1st and MOST important, collimate the telescope optical and mechanical axis. Mount the front pad and sweat it on. Then adjust the rear of this pad to swing the graticle to centre on the azimuth of the bore against the DAP. Lift or lower the rear pad* to suit suit what you have achieved so far. Point of grat SET TO 100 and tip on the DAP. When it's EXACT, sweat everything on using clamps. Test again. When it is perfect only THEN start drilling of doing anything that will take what you're doing past the point of no return.

That's it said very simply. There is a half decent amateur attempt by me at putting this into a readable semi technical thread somewhere too that one or two have followed simply enough. There are also true experts out there who's understanding of the optics, mechanics and optical/mechanical collimation is greater than mine. BUT whatever you (or anyone else attempting this) stick to one tried and tested idea

* If you have to make a rear pad to suit, it is quite a simple matter but Fulton make pads that are a good fit with some simple hand fitting

[Badger]

Not sure if this is helpful or not, but ....

Articles by Peter Laidler ...

Making Up a Useable No.4 Sniper - Part 1

Making Up a Useable No.4 Sniper - Part 2

Making Up a Useable No.4 Sniper - Part 3

Making Up a Useable No.4 Sniper - Part 4

Regards,
Doug

[Lou Cypher]

Thank you Badger, I'm already working with these articles, but the problem that I'm experiencing is not in, that 's why I'm asking for some help

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:44 PM ----------

Mine was Accumount as well, and with same problem.
Have you drilled the three holes for the front pad?
If not. Best solution is to get some other pads.
But the three holes have too fit Exactly.
I dont know if they doo.

2. It is posible to measure out how mucth too high the front pad is.
And lower the centerhole in the front pad.

If you sre interested I can explain how.
But it will take me a little time to whrite it
Because my English is not that good

Jsne

Pictures are sometime better for explaining, I would be happy to see how you did.

[Jsne]

Mine was Accumount as well, and with same problem.
Have you drilled the three holes for the front pad?
If not. Best solution is to get some other pads.
But the three holes have too fit Exactly.
I dont know if they doo.

2. It is posible to measure out how mucth too high the front pad is.
And lower the centerhole in the front pad.

If you sre interested I can explain how.
But it will take me a little time to whrite it
Because my English is not that good

Jsne

[CINDERS]

Here's jsne's thread on the build of his faker T.
https://www.google.com/url?q=https:/...k5E5ABxxMsbgqm

[Jsne]

First you need to measure out how mutch you need to lower the
Spigot on the front pad:
Put the rifle or barel/action to exat straight level
Using a Spirit Level (buble thing) on the front barrel over the bayonet
Lugs.
Put your scope in the bracked and mount it tight in the front Pad.
Now with the rear thumpscrew removed insert the rear pad between
The bracket an action body
Now place the Spirit Level on the front tube of the scope.
Use a set of feeler gauges in the gab under the rear pad
Until the scope is lewel with the rifle.
The thicknes of the numbers of your feeler gauges is what you need to lower the Spigot on the front pad.
Lk
In Peter Laidlers book about the story of thr no.4 t
He explain how do repair a worrn out Spigot
It is exactly the same I doo but with an exentric bushing with the center
Iowered to what you need.
I have the book and can scan the side to you.&

But I think wee need Peters permission to copy anything
From his book
So Peter if you read this? Will it be Ok?

jsne

The rest will folow in s cuppel og days