Springfield Krag rifle builder.

[butlersrangers]

What makes you think you have a headspace problem?

In my experience, Krag barrel index marks usually line-up with the receiver index mark, when putting a loose barrel on a receiver.
(BTW - Early barrels have a 'flat' breech-face and need the rear barrel-thread to be slightly 'beveled', in order to fully seat against the inside flange of later model 1898 & 1899 receivers).

Krag index marks need to line-up for the sight-screw holes & front-sight to be 'plumb'. This is also required in order for the extractor-notch to properly line-up.

Krag headspace is surprisingly tolerant and easily solved by switching to a 'newish' bolt.

Most Krag bolts will not close on a .073 inch thick 'Field Gauge', which is a better standard for Krags than a 'No-Go Gauge).

[99621]

What makes you think you have a headspace problem?

In my experience, Krag barrel index marks usually line-up with the receiver index mark, when putting a loose barrel on a receiver.
(BTW - Early barrels have a 'flat' breech-face and need the rear barrel-thread to be slightly 'beveled', in order to fully seat against the inside flange of later model 1898 & 1899 receivers).

Krag index marks need to line-up for the sight-screw holes & front-sight to be 'plumb'. This is also required in order for the extractor-notch to properly line-up.

Krag headspace is surprisingly tolerant and easily solved by switching to a 'newish' bolt.

Thanks

[99621]

KRAG GUIDE LIP

I've checked out the diagrams, and I can't figure where it specifically goes, nothing shows where it goes.

Attachment 115998


I have all of the parts for the rifle, barrel, I will be assembling everything soon.

I am going to be looking for the wooden stock, handguard however I don't want to get a safe queen, I eat a good condition used stock with character.

[99621]

I received a barrel with a excellent bore, the finish is excellent.

Attachment 115999

Attachment 116000

Attachment 116001

It should be fine, I just need the no go gauge to be on target.

[browningautorifle]

KRAG GUIDE LIP

It's rivetted to the bottom of the magazine floor. Look inside the magazine to the rear for the opposite hole for the rivet.

[butlersrangers]

Your Krag action probably already has the 'guide lip' in place.

The rivet that anchors it in place is almost invisible, so the part seems integral with the receiver.

BTW - U.S. Krag Barrels were completely finished, ('clocked' threads & index marked, front-sight base brazed on, rear-sight holes drilled & tapped, proofed & marked, chamber completed, extractor-notch cut, and rust 'browned'/blued).

The Krag barrel never met its case hardened receiver, until the completely finished barrel was screwed on to the receiver and the index marks lined-up.

Krag barrels were basically made "interchangeable". 'Finish chamber-reaming', after barrel installation, and fitting the bolt were not required, like nowadays.

[rcathey]

Krag barrels were basically made "interchangeable". 'Finish chamber-reaming', after barrel installation, and fitting the bolt were not required, like nowadays.

My krag has had three barrels on it.
The original that had been drilled out to deactivate it.
The replacement that I cheaped out on and had a bad bore.
The second replacement with a good bore.

All three indexed properly and the two replacements showed no signs of excessive headspace. From a manufacturing standpoint, that’s frankly AMAZING.

[99621]

It's rivetted to the bottom of the magazine floor. Look inside the magazine to the rear for the opposite hole for the rivet.

Thanks, will do it.

---------- Post added at 08:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:08 AM ----------

Your Krag action probably already has the 'guide lip' in place.

The rivet that anchors it in place is almost invisible, so the part seems integral with the receiver.

BTW - U.S. Krag Barrels were completely finished, ('clocked' threads & index marked, front-sight base brazed on, rear-sight holes drilled & tapped, proofed & marked, chamber completed, extractor-notch cut, and rust 'browned'/blued).

The Krag barrel never met its case hardened receiver, until the completely finished barrel was screwed on to the receiver and the index marks lined-up.

Krag barrels were basically made "interchangeable". 'Finish chamber-reaming', after barrel installation, and fitting the bolt were not required, like nowadays.

Awesome, one less thing to worry about, I have a no go gauge for the Krag.

---------- Post added at 08:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:13 AM ----------

My krag has had three barrels on it.
The original that had been drilled out to deactivate it.
The replacement that I cheaped out on and had a bad bore.
The second replacement with a good bore.

All three indexed properly and the two replacements showed no signs of excessive headspace. From a manufacturing standpoint, that’s frankly AMAZING.

Amazing for a 100+ year old barrel, mine is still in excellent shape. Thanks.

[99621]

The old rifles are a testament to time, much more importantly is that they are still able to be used without any danger to the shooter, as long as the rifle is in excellent working condition. That's why I personally check out every part of the rifle while building it, cleaning it, making sure the screws are perfect with no buggered up heads.
Attachment 116020
Every firearm in my armory has perfect screws, when my M38 Fucile Corto came in I found several buggered screws, sourced some good replacement screws and it's beautiful.

More Krag information, progress to follow.

[butlersrangers]

God's praises to those, who own guns and use proper fitting screwdrivers!

A 'Field Gauge' with a rim thickness of .073 or .074 inches is probably the most useful with U.S. Krags.
A 'Go Gauge' is relatively useless, unless fitting a newly manufactured barrel to an action.

Many Krag's may close on a 'No-Go Gauge', but, be totally safe, gentle on Brass, and have many years of shooting left in them.

"Grandpa's Gun Parts" has original NOS model 1898 Krag bolts available for around $60.

Neck-Sizing .30-40 Brass, by backing-off the re-sizing Die one turn, extends case life and avoids needlessly 'working' the case-shoulder.