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Thread: Eddystone Birch stock?

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  1. #11
    Advisory Panel Chuckindenver's Avatar
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    well, i have experianced my first 17 sweet gum stock, what i thought was birch, i find is actually sweet gum, and is really hard to sand and prep. just clogged up regular sand paper, so i used sanding blocks, they worked well, stained it heavy, and will see how it comes out..
    mine is not marked M but has a U8 under the buttplate, RIA FK for rockisland rebuild,
    learn something everyday..

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chadwick View Post

    Just one further thought, Coal Burner: what did you use to strip the wood?

    I recently did some experimenting with a walnut stock from a scrapped Mauser, and found that with caustic soda followed by hydrogen peroxide you can bleach European walnut right out to the color of raw beech! Look at the structure of the wood, not the color - maybe it IS walnut and you overdid the chemicals!

    Patrick


    I thought about the exact same thing, but the barrel and receiver inletting was never painted, and it was all light yellow before I started stripping anything. Plus the structure of the grain just doesn't look like walnut (to me) no matter what color it is, and I have a couple of walnut 1917 stocks to compare to.

    I spot checked three different shades of Fiebing's leather dye on it, and they all turned out bright red. Birch always seems to turn red with that type of dye. I wound up scrubbing most of the leather dye off and using a Minwax stain to avoid the red coloration.

    I'm surprised that rebuild stocks from another contractor would have the "E" stamp. Why would they even bother with that on a replacement stock years after the fact? Also surprised that they would use any type of gum wood - in my experience the grain is twisted like a rope and I won't even try to split it for firewood.

    If anyone is curious enough, I can take pictures of it when I get home in a couple of weeks.

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    I don't claim to be an expert, but I too have a birch stock on my 1917. The stock came from Numerich, described as "hardwood" and was in NOS condition. That is to say dry, dusty and slightly dinged from storage. Cost under $40 a few years back. It is marked with an R at the tip and has an eagle head 339 stamp ahead of the magwell. As far as I know, the eagle heads were phased out long before WW2, so it doesn't make sense for them to be re-applied by a contractor during ww2. I have heard the same thing that the birch stocks were all produced during ww2, but I find it hard to believe that they would bother to use the old markings.

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    I have the same exact stock with the same stamp! I purchased it online a year or so ago.

  7. #15
    Dan Wilson
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    Well if it has the eagles head stamp then it IS an original stock, these inspectors stamps were not used outside of initial acceptance.

    Dan

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    Here's the view of my Eagle/R stamped Birchwood stock
    Last edited by bordercav; 05-10-2009 at 03:05 PM.

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    That is a lovely rifle.

    Bob

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    Thanks, it's one of those projects that finally came together. I purchased it from Auction Arms about 2 years ago for around $600. It was a WWI/WWII rebuild with an 11-18 Rem barrel (shiny, smooth bore, no headspace issues) that is quite late for the receiver serial number. It had been reparked so the receiver stampings aren't super crisp, but decent enough and no pitting on the receiver. The bolt (and it's internals) were Eddystone, but the triggerguard & follower (less the floorplate) were R, as was the sear. The stock was a WWII (no mfg stamp) dark walnut with SSA & OGEK stampings. None of the furniture was R. Luckily enough, I was able to source many R stamped parts from ebay (stock, bolt) as well as Springfield Sporters & SARCO. Even luckier for me is the small handful of W stamped parts & the unmarked stock set brought me a small fortune on ebay offsetting most of what I spent to get this rifle to all R stamped configuration. The icing on the cake was the sling that came with it wasn't the Kerr you see in the photos but a proper M-1903 sling that now adorns my 1896 Kragicon, a $150 sling based on the last one that sold on ebay recently. If I add up what I spent and offset this with what I sold or didn't have to spend (the Krag sling), this rifle ended up costing me around $250. Now I gotta take it to the range to validate the whole exercise.

  11. #19
    Dan Wilson
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    Unless someones humping M1917 stocks, that is original equipment, and very very nice looking original equipment

    Congrats on a beautiful rifle.

    Dan

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    One other thing, the forend tip wasn't drilled. I had to first fit the upper band to the tip with a wood file, then drill to fit. The finish was as dry as a bone; I hit it with steel wool to smooth it out a bit, then a couple of coats of linseed oilicon and it came back too life quite nicely as you can see.

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