Questions About My No.4 Mk1 (T) Sniper Rifle

[Shootingmaster]

Doug thanks for the article concerning the Savage Sniper Rifle. Very interesting read.

Mike

[Badger]

Doug thanks for the article concerning the Savage Sniper Rifle. Very interesting read.

Mike

You're welcome Mike ....

Lots of excellent content in the MKL added over the last 4 years, some of it very rare .....

Regards,
Doug

[Shootingmaster]

jmoore would you explain what the X on the wood line below the front scope pad means. It sounds like you have seen this mark before.

Mike

[Peter Laidler]

I don't think that X mark means staked screws. If some modification is visible to an inspecting Armourer, then it's visible and he won't need telling. There is only an external mark if the modification is internal and would mean stripping the rifle to confirm that it's been done. Take the body locking catch on the SLR. If modified, the mark is stamped near the retaining pin.

[rayg]

I was under the impression that after all sniper modifications were made at H&H including a "telescope" fitted and sighted in, the rifle then received the final stamp of Enfield inspector Harry Hardwick, (“D6E”) on the left flat of the receiver behind the bolt as the above rifle has. I guess apparently this was not the case and rifles received the final D6E proof w/o a scope having been installed.
Seems a bit unusual as the proper fitting of the bracket and the scope and sighting testing seems like a major part of the final acceptence/proofing for a sniper, Ray

Peter at what stage of inspection was the D6E stamp applied if it wasn't after the scope was applied? Ray

[Peter Laidler]

It was applied when the rifle had passed the 'out inspection' phase but like you, I can't imagine it being 'finished' without a telescope. But, that aside, it didn't have a telescope. However, it was still an eminenently serviceable rifle built to 'T' spec - as were the other less telescope rifles that are known of.

I know that the letter 'T' was marked by him too, but this was used 'as a mark, close to the designation that is indicative of its telescope status'. If this rifle didn't have the 'T', that would seem to indicate that it left without a telescope

I am inclined to agree with Roger Payne that the rifle number on the bracket has been mis read and then stamped accordingly and that the first number should be 3 instead of 5.

[bearhunter]

So, does that mean the "TR" stamp on the socket means "telescope ready" and the "T" mark on the left receiver flat stands for "telescoped"?

[viking guy]

Nice real deal sniper. The MKIII scope turrets can be adjusted so point of aim equals point of impact( thus" zeroed") and then the turrets or drums,regardless of their readings, can be re- adjusted so they both read zero and the point of aim equals point of impact will be preserved. I think. This assumes a nonmatching scope has enough adjustment in the drums to collimate the bore with the longitudinal axis of the scope. Okay, Captain Laidler , I have read your comments about the importance of matched rifle and scope. I can understand this for a MKI and MKII scope. Does the MKIII offer the advantage I describe above or am I just wrong.

When I shoot my T, I appreciate it's mechanical refinement and precision. It just plain feels right. My custom shop Remington TWS 700 police will outshoot the Enfield but feels a bit rough in comparison. I did get behind the wheel of a AI once and that's a special trip.

[Surpmil]

Well, if related to Unity Mitford he might have wanted to 'get away somewhere!

[Peter Laidler]

TR indicates that the rifle had grouped to a tighter standard than that laid down for the run of work rifles and as it was more accurate, was marked as such and set to one side and earmarked as suitable to become a telescope rofle (the TR) Not all TR rifles were converted as plenty of TR's carried on as normal rifles.

The letter T was added (and I'm quoting the bible here.....) close to the designation (that's why some trials rifles have the T on the left side butt socket) to indicate its new designation (as in 'Rifle .303" No4T Mk1') as indicative of its new telescope (or telescopic, I forget which now....) rifle status.

As for the telescopes.......... It's too difficult and long winded to explain again. But it's all been written several times before. BUT, there are pro's and cons with each mark type. But, in short, regardless of scope initially ignore the drum and always get the best zero you can by using the lead screw.
When you're close, final zero on the drum, using the clicks.
When you're ON, note the position of the lead screw, hold it there and swing the drum to suit the range.

The lessons on zeroing are a practical and not a theory lesson. But you can understand now why the lead screw clamping nut should nip-up the lead screw, just over finger tight and not be tightened as if you're doing up Jumbo Jet wheel nuts