Adjusting the No 32 scope

[Norton1]

paulseamus - maybe you should reread my post - I never even remotely suggested that Mr, Laidler could not write nor did I suggest that he did not know what he was talking about or how to communicate it in any format he chose to do so. Warren never said to buy Peter's book but to buy a book - period end of story. I'm no mind reader and neither are you. I was not asking about the history, construction, nor any other facet of the No 32 but simply how to adjust the thing. It may have been a great scope in its day but it is a piece of crap to adjust. My even larger concern is how close it may be to ranging with the ballistic compensation portion. My $60 Weaver currently on the rifle is so much better that it defies comparison.

I never started a scrap. I apologized if I did as I never intended that. A few of the responses would certainly indicate that some of you took umbrage with how I said what I did. And thereby made it into something it wasn't. Peter and I have communicated many times on things related to my rifle. I know how smart he is. I know how smart Warren is. And the manner of offering me genuine assistance by a few folks has been directed more to the defense of someone who needs no defense.

For crying out loud - if you can't answer the question posited then move on to another thread. None of you know me or what I have for resources. Or where those resources are allocated to in my own life. $30 may not be a biggy to some of you - but for me that can make the difference in whether or not I shoot the rifle.

I made my apology and have been rebuffed for it it appears paulseamus. This is a fruitless exchange and I am most sincerely sorry it turned out this way. All I requested was a simple "how do you . . . " and it's turned into this condemnation of something or another. This is my last word on it - My apologies if anything I said has offended anyone. I'll figure it out myself.

Be well,
Steve

Information

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[MJ1]

Can't we all just get along here?

[Surpmil]

There's one thing that makes this process a bit simpler and that is that you can clearly, but not accurately, see how much you are rotating the lead screw as you turn the "tommy bar" handle of the adjusting tool. Visualize a mil scale on which the tommy bar is rotating like a hand on a clock face. You will soon get a sense of how much adjustment your rotation of the lead screw is actually making to the zero of the scope. Not precise of course, but it gives you a pointer, so to speak.

Take your scope and fully unscrew one of the locking rings so you can see down inside the drum (knob) and see the shoulder (flange) on the lead screw. Don't unscrew the leadscrew completely, but you can unscrew it a turn or two if you want to see how it all goes together.

Fact is, it is very easy to over-adjust. Not just that, but the locking ring must be freed off JUST ENOUGH to allow the lead screw to turn. Undo it too much and there will be a gap under the locking ring, and then if you turn the lead screw counter-clockwise, all it will do is unscrew itself from the reticule block! Then when you tighten the locking ring again, the shoulder on the lead screw will be pushed down until it hits the bottom of the shoulder on the inside of the drum (knob) and you will be miles out without even realizing anything is wrong.

If you have to bring the pointer of the reticule up, it is simpler because you turn the lead screw clockwise and it bears against the shoulder in the bottom of the drum and everything stays pretty much as you left it. HOWEVER, you have to make sure that the friction of the locking ring as it tightens against the shoulder on the lead screw does not turn the lead screw as well! You see it was designed by Rube Goldberg & Heath Robinson, Consulting Engineers! ;-)

You didn't say what mark of scope you have, but if it is a MkII at least you get 1MOA "clicks" and can rotate the knob until you are zeroed, then loosen the locking rings (one at a time) and try to turn the drums back to zero without turning the lead screw as you loosen and tighten the locking rings and as you turn the drums.

If it's a MkI, you're going to have more fun, because your adjustments for elevation are in 50 yard increments and windage in 2 MOA increments and those are not much use for zeroing.

At least most of the work can be done at home with the rifle in a vice and a good boresighter fitted. By that I mean one with a grid pattern you align from, not a laser pointer type.

You still need the book... :-)

[jmoore]

There is a low cost way of zeroing the scope if it's on paper at whatever range the shooting is being done if you have a stable rifle rest or cradle. Shoot a group with the scope showing the numbers needed, move the rifle to the cradle, adjust the rifle in the cradle until the graticule is pointing again at the aiming point, lock everything in place (Can be as simple as having a friend hold things still), and then use the adjusting tool to move the grat to the point of impact. Might take two or three tries, but it doesn't require knowing any technical stuff- you can watch the grat move as the tool is turned! I can do it using a couple of towels, some sandbags and no assistant. It's easier than zeroing the "modern" Unertl 10x MST100 M40a1 scope which is almost forty years newer...

[Brian Dick]

The scope booklet is $15 plus postage.

[Norton1]

Thank you surpmil - I suspect that I was doing as you describe and not getting very far! My friend Warren is going to reset the scope up for me and then I'll go out with an assistant to get it on target.

The 2 MOA windage is not a big deal as in shooting long range tactical rifles we would hold to the windward side in 1 MOA increments rather than constantly trying to adjust the scope for it. The 50 yard vertical adjustment is also fine. Even at 1000 yards it is still minute of man for what the scope was designed for.

Thanks for all your assistance - it's all good - -

Be well,
Steve

[Valleysniper]

Peter

Bet your Tel Stg No 32 book doesn't cover this variant?

Somebody went to a lot of trouble to make what looks like a German Hensoldt/32 hybrid.

By the way my Tel Stg No 32 book has been so well used and referred to over last 10 years the pages are falling out of the spine and had to glue them back in.

[PrinzEugen]

Ha - I saw that one too Valleysniper - I was debating with myself whether it had any worth whatsoever - I came to the conclusion it didn't!

[Surpmil]

Ha - I saw that one too Valleysniper - I was debating with myself whether it had any worth whatsoever - I came to the conclusion it didn't!

On the other hand, had he used the same parts from a No32 Mk3, he would have had excellent optics combined with a robust and accurate adjustment mechanism with both windage and elevation.

I'm sure others also tossed this idea around. I know I did.

Of course if you wanted such a thing, Zeiss were happy to make you up a Zeilvier with a windage drum, but not with a spring loaded indexing system of course.

[Peter Laidler]

With that No32 turret assembly and a No42 or 53 plus a few hours of machine/lathe work, you've got yourself a perfect No32.

Did you get the No5 bino parts Taff?