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  1. #1
    Legacy Member peregrinvs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vincent View Post
    It’s interesting to see how it was deactivated. Is the breech block welded to the barrel?
    The part of the bolt that covers the ejection port has been cut away from the rest of the bolt and then welded back inside the receiver. Behind that sits the steel ring into which the cocking handle and return spring sit. Unfortunately this means the cocking handle sits about 1/2 inch too far back. I've seen other post-1995 Sterling deacts where the rear half of the bolt is still there rather than the ring on this one.

    I assume the front shroud bolts have blobs of weld on them to stop them being unscrewed. I wonder if this means they're not physically locked?
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  2. #2
    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    I was lucky to find some khaki web slings at the Knob Creek show a few years ago. The first I'd ever seen. Marked "SMG Sling Mk.1 MECO 1956". I have the usual Britishicon green web and a Canadianicon C1 SMG green web with steel fittings.

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    Legacy Member Brit plumber's Avatar
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    Yes the weld blobs are to stop Allen keys undoing them. The barrel is also pinned in place so I swopped the screws on mine. I've of the opinion that it makes no difference to the deactivation as not all of them have the screws welded. My pre 95 certainly didn't.

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  5. #4
    Legacy Member tankhunter's Avatar
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    When fixing the front Barrel retaining screws on Deact Sterlings that I had cut.
    I used to weld them on the threaded screw shanks inside the Reciever jacket. It was 'tricky' getting a welding rod through one of the cooling holes without touching the sides!
    But, welding the threads from inside was much neater, & prevented them from being unscrewed.

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  7. #5
    Contributing Member mrclark303's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tankhunter View Post
    When fixing the front Barrel retaining screws on Deact Sterlings that I had cut.
    I used to weld them on the threaded screw shanks inside the Reciever jacket. It was 'tricky' getting a welding rod through one of the cooling holes without touching the sides!
    But, welding the threads from inside was much neater, & prevented them from being unscrewed.
    Seen quite a few deactivated with the barrel allen screws welded Mike, usually the body drilled on the left to the allen screw channel then the screw mig welded in place and ground back and painted. Not as neat as your system Mike..

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    Legacy Member Vincent's Avatar
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    Welding the screws from the back sounds like a good idea. It keeps the original look and the alphabet boys can’t question it.


    This is about how most of them look when we get them here.




    We strip the usable parts from the torch cut body and make Mk6 copies with a new tube and semi-auto only parts. It would be almost the same amount of work to make a display. At one time display Mk4 Sterlings were selling for more than a functional Mk6 copy.

  9. #7
    Contributing Member mrclark303's Avatar
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    Blimey Vincent, torch cut in three places ... or blown up! Whats the deal with the the selective fire trigger mech, are these left untouched and reusable with a semi only mod applied ?

  10. #8
    Legacy Member Vincent's Avatar
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    Yes, the trigger mech gets modified. The sear is slimmed, a stainless steel pin is welded in to prevent the selector from going to automatic and section of the housing is cutaway. A steel pad is welded to body that blocks an unmodified trigger en bloc from going in.

  11. #9
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    I think that the reason for the screws being welded at the front, as well as any other extra fancy welding you might wish to add is to prevent the screws from being drilled right through from the muzzle end. Because when you drill into hex bolt heads, the drill always self-centres.

    Not a thing of concern with the post 95 deacts where the bolt is welded in place I suspect as you can't just drill the screws and clonk the barrel out

  12. #10
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    When they did them here they cut the breech block at an angle from the outside front to the rear towards the mag housing. Then it's welded in place. The barrel must be plugged with a hard rod, front cut to an angle to deter driving out. Weld in place and pin from the outside, weld over that. The front screws are filled with weld. The trigger mech is removed and welded solid, then ground flat. The lock screw is welded in. The butt will likely not move because the rear cap will also be welded in place. Decide which mag you want in place because it must be reduced to 5 rds or welded inoperative, welded in place...

    Pretty grim, then someone wants big money. The old cock and clicks were looking good...
    Regards, Jim

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