What should be my next WWII era firearm?

[Eaglelord17]

The Carcano will be in 7.35x51 then, which is pretty much a reloading only round. Basically Italy came up with this cartridge which was better than 6.5 Carcano. However due to wartime constraints it was decided it would be better to ditch the 7.35 and stick with 6.5 for logistical reasons (more rifles were in 6.5, and they didn't want to have two standard issue calibers on the go at the same time). As such many 7.35 rifles went to Finland to assist the Finnish in fighting the Russians.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[I.H.1989]

The Carcano will be in 7.35x51 then, which is pretty much a reloading only round. Basically Italy came up with this cartridge which was better than 6.5 Carcano. However due to wartime constraints it was decided it would be better to ditch the 7.35 and stick with 6.5 for logistical reasons (more rifles were in 6.5, and they didn't want to have two standard issue calibers on the go at the same time). As such many 7.35 rifles went to Finland to assist the Finnish in fighting the Russians.

Thanks for hte info. I know that the had one for each type of ammo so I know which one i need to keep an eye out for.

Also, I think i found a picture that i think is pretty close to what the Chinese Mauser looked like.



The only difference was that it had more blueing and the nut was missing where you would grip to pull the trigger. Not sure how much that would affect the price.

Also, I was thinking trying to convince them to lower the price of the Arisaka for me. I know that it was mentioned to me before that 300 would be a good price for a Arisaka without the mum, but since this one seems to be in goo condition, and still have the anti-air sights, what would be a decent price?

[Aragorn243]

Arisaka - $300 with no mum, that is the good condition price.

Folding bayonets for the Carcano usually do go for more than the rifle. If it is SA marked, even more than usual. 7.35 is harder to get than 6.5. It can be purchased but is hit or miss. Graf is the best source that I'm aware of. For a representative Italian rifle, you probably would want a 6.5

Does the mauser have Chinese markings on it? That would be pretty important for me. Top of my list would be a Chinese produced rifle but one otherwise marked would be suitable.

[I.H.1989]

Arisaka - $300 with no mum, that is the good condition price.

Folding bayonets for the Carcano usually do go for more than the rifle. If it is SA marked, even more than usual. 7.35 is harder to get than 6.5. It can be purchased but is hit or miss. Graf is the best source that I'm aware of. For a representative Italian rifle, you probably would want a 6.5

Does the mauser have Chinese markings on it? That would be pretty important for me. Top of my list would be a Chinese produced rifle but one otherwise marked would be suitable.

I will keep that in mind for the Arisaka, and i will go with the 6.5 Carcano rifles.

I don't think it had any Chinese marking on it. I think there were markings on the side of the receiver showing that it was built for the Chinese Nationalists, but I would have to double check that.

[Aragorn243]

The Chinese definitely did purchase VZ24's so most likely it is a Chinese Mauser. It should have a "P" in front of the serial number and should be dated 1937. These were used by the Nationalists, then the Japanese after they were captured and re-issued and then once again postwar by the Chinese again, probably both Nationalists and communists depending who got their hands on them first. Bore condition is key with this one. I know they are out there but I have never personally came across a Chinese Mauser that wasn't shot out.

[I.H.1989]

The Chinese definitely did purchase VZ24's so most likely it is a Chinese Mauser. It should have a "P" in front of the serial number and should be dated 1937. These were used by the Nationalists, then the Japanese after they were captured and re-issued and then once again postwar by the Chinese again, probably both Nationalists and communists depending who got their hands on them first. Bore condition is key with this one. I know they are out there but I have never personally came across a Chinese Mauser that wasn't shot out.

I do remember a "P" being on the serial number, but I will have to check on the date as well. If the bore is good, or at least decent, I'm going to guess that the $250 is a good deal. What about if it is shot out? what would the value be?

[Aragorn243]

If the bore is good, I'd say that is a good price unless the exterior is really bad. If the bore is shot out, I wouldn't buy it. If I was going with a shot out rifle, which I did, I would want one that was actually produced by the Chinese and this just so I have an example of one. I have a Hanyang which is actually not a Mauser but a variation of the German Commission rifle, the 88. China produced them under contract and did not use the barrel sleeve. Shot out rifles are usually floating around at $100.

One way to help see if a barrel is too far gone is to put an 8mm bullet in the end of the barrel. If it goes in all the way to the casing, it's shot out. The greater the distance between the barrel end and the casing is better. A 16th inch is almost worn out, an 8th inch has some decent life left etc. Not a perfect test by any means but better than nothing. Just make sure the store owner is OK with it. My hanyang will let a bullet removed from the casing to go all the way through.

[I.H.1989]

If the bore is good, I'd say that is a good price unless the exterior is really bad. If the bore is shot out, I wouldn't buy it. If I was going with a shot out rifle, which I did, I would want one that was actually produced by the Chinese and this just so I have an example of one. I have a Hanyang which is actually not a Mauser but a variation of the German Commission rifle, the 88. China produced them under contract and did not use the barrel sleeve. Shot out rifles are usually floating around at $100.

One way to help see if a barrel is too far gone is to put an 8mm bullet in the end of the barrel. If it goes in all the way to the casing, it's shot out. The greater the distance between the barrel end and the casing is better. A 16th inch is almost worn out, an 8th inch has some decent life left etc. Not a perfect test by any means but better than nothing. Just make sure the store owner is OK with it. My hanyang will let a bullet removed from the casing to go all the way through.

From what i remember, the exterior was pretty good. Most of the blueing was still there and the stock looked to be in decent shape. I don't think there were any cracks in it, just a lot of dings, and none that were that deep. One thing that I do remember missing was the the loop, and it's entire bolt, that would hold the sling on the left side of the stock.

EDIT:
This is what was missing on it:

[Aragorn243]

A missing sling swivel you can probably find. Sounds like it's the one near the wrist, might be a little harder to find that one but they are around. Czech VZ24's are bringing good money these days. Going off just a description where you don't remember everything is a bad way to estimate a value but I would think based on what you said that it's worth the $250.00. I paid $300 for my Czech and it didn't have much bluing left, good bore though.

[I.H.1989]

Unfortunately, i agree with you on just a description being a bad way to estimate. Unfortunately, the store I go to doesn't allow for pictures to be taken by any. I'll probably go by there this Friday and see if if i can take a few, but I really doubt it.

I did manage to find the wrist swivel for $20 on ebay, so i have something already lined up if i do decide to get it. It all really depends on the condition of the bore and rifling. If they are good, I will probably get it, otherwise, I will probably pass and instead see if i can get them to lower their price on an Arisaka.