My new Winchester

[SRiverrat11]

SRiverrat11,

Look over this link and pay attention to the rear of the side blade protectors.
Study and note the longer arcing curve found on the WRA used frt sights.
See how it doesn't have a SKI SLOPE type back edge.
Also note the style of punched stake mark used to pinch in the frt sight's pin.
Most often the frt sight pins staking on WRA's looks like a O over/around the pin, pinching the metal on the sight to tighten (stake) the pin.
In time you'll know a WRA at a glance.
Hope I've made some sense, sometimes tough finding the right description....................

LINK:
http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=14201

POST #8 in this link will show a before cleaned WRA's frt sight still having some of the metal hanging from being staked:

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=38393

HTH,
Charlie-Painter777

I think I understand the curve of the sight ears now. The first link was very helpful. I learned very little from the second link other then what an absolutely amazing early Winchester you have there. So, should I shoot mine? If yes, how often?

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[painter777]

SRiverrat11,

You can't shoot it until you fill out this Data Sheet.
Look this over closely, and print a few off, it will get you very familiar with your carbine:

http://uscarbinecal30.com/forum/uplo...v4__1-1-11.pdf

The above form was found here:

Carbine Club Data Sheets - The Carbine Collector's Club

Here is the main/home page:

The Carbine Collector's Club

I share this with you, because you are now one of us..... mainly because of your sweet carbine ;-)

Cheers
Charlie-Painter777

P.S. You need to invest or borrow a good camera next.

PSS. Look inside the trigger housing magwell, looking at the front teeth on your magcatch, Is there a W stamped on the right one? Looking something like this .W. with these small punch marks on either side of the W?

[SRiverrat11]

Ive done the data sheet. I did not take apart the bolt. I will, I just better watch a few Youtube videos on how to do it. Some of the things on the data sheet I don't quite understand what they are. Looking over Riesch's sixth edition helps.

[Bruce McAskill]

Just be sure you have a bolt tool when you take the bolt apart. If you take it apart without a bolt tool then get ready to curse and yell and loose your temper when you try to put it back together. This is followed by uncontrollable crying and asking yourself why you did it taking it apart in the first place. Then the rest of the night will be a lot of weeping and wishing you have a bolt tool. The moral of the story is....GET A BOLT TOOL!!!!

[SRiverrat11]

Last thing on this carbine guys. After seeing a diagonal pattern I read some threads on here and looked in Riesch's book and I can't figure out whose buttplate this is. I measured the diamonds per inch and got almost 14, but it sure doesn't look like an Underwood. There are no markings on it either. So one more time guys, could I have some opinions please? Thanks, Scott

[painter777]

This picture shows a early Inland on the LEFT
Underwood on the RIGHT


HTH,
Charlie-Painter

[SRiverrat11]

Thanks painter777. I found it. It's at the bottom of the ID'ing buttplates page. It's a commercial copy of an early Inland buttplate. Disappointing, but still a nice Winchester.

[painter777]

SRiverrat11,
I had a feeling I'd seen your new WRA before you posted this.. or at least thought I had.
Today while clearing out my GB watch list of completed auctions.... Bam there it was. You got it for nearly $800 cheaper than my notes thought it would bring. I believe with better 'Detailed pictures' the seller would have got the Buy It Now price.
Looks as though your Butt plate was replaced, probably replaced the original that was damaged.
Is the Recoil Plate Screw fully threaded?
Congrats Again... Nice buy !

Charlie-Painter777

[painter777]

Is the Recoil Plate Screw fully threaded?

I looked at your Data sheet and now see it's partially threaded.
I'd keep the screw, but would install a X marked on top screw, or a XX. Which some say is actually a + mark instead of a x.

CH-P777

[USGI]

I'd keep the screw, but would install a X marked on top screw, or a XX.

The one he's got is also considered a "correct" one though, isn't it? - Bob