They're here! Reproduction No32 scopes.

[Alan de Enfield]

Whilst it wont affect these scopes :

As I understand it (in the USA) any scope with more than 4x magnification is classed as 'military' and is not allowed to be either imported or exported.

Another example of 'closing the borders' I think.

[JGaynor]

Whilst it wont affect these scopes :

As I understand it (in the USA) any scope with more than 4x magnification is classed as 'military' and is not allowed to be either imported or exported.

Another example of 'closing the borders' I think.

This can't be true. Most of the scopes sold in the USA have been imported from somewhere. I believe even some of the remaining US manufacturers get their lens sets from overseas.

Perhaps with a little research the real source of these scopes could be identified and you could 'cut out the middleman".

Regards,

Jim

[Alan de Enfield]

This can't be true. Most of the scopes sold in the USA have been imported from somewhere. I believe even some of the remaining US manufacturers get their lens sets from overseas.

Perhaps with a little research the real source of these scopes could be identified and you could 'cut out the middleman".

Regards,

Jim

You can get 'anything' with a licence - as an un-licenced 'individual' you cannot import/export a 4X + scope.
I'd sold a scope on ebay (to a US buyer) when the problems arose - easily got around of course as it became a "telescope" and not a "telescopic sight"

Below is an example of restrictions listed by a UK gunshop for shipping to the USA :

NeRESTRICTIONS
We cannot send any air rifles or air pistols to USA
WE CANNOT SEND SILENCERS TO ANY US STATE
We cannot send scopes over 4x mag, bipods or silencers to USA
We can send all other accessories
DELIVERY METHOD
Parcels over 2kg - TNT
Parcels over 60cm length - TNT
Parcel less than 2kg - International Signed For post

[Hal O'Peridol]

Well, I ordered one of these scopes this morning. Will be interesting to see it in hand. I would guess from the quality of the optics that Warren reported, that the scope is probably made in the former USSR somewhere, probably the Ukraine.

[Surpmil]

Hope they made the adjusting tools to go with them!

[Beerhunter]

Hope they made the adjusting tools to go with them!

They won't be a lot of use without them.

I really MUST get around to publishing my article on how to use the tools to zero the scope - without losing one's reason in the process.

[OxfordAndy]

They won't be a lot of use without them.

I really MUST get around to publishing my article on how to use the tools to zero the scope - without losing one's reason in the process.

YES PLEASE! That would be a great thing to have! Then I can stop hassling Peter for help!

[jmoore]

If the fiddly bits are properly torqued, this simple tool works fine! (It came w/ a rifle, don't know who made the tool.)

[OxfordAndy]

I asked at Fulton's yesterday if they had any tools for adjusting a Mk3...I was told I could join their waiting list of over 300 people asking the same question!

[Peter Laidler]

Just a minute............, you don't need a tool to adjust a Mk3 do you?

Want to adjust a Mk1 or 2, then just switch off the TV and read this note for a minute, then read it again.

First, before you go out onto the range, release by 1/4 turn the large diameter lead screw locking nuts. They are the black, steel, .75" diameter forked nut that sit astride the central brass lead screws in the centre of the range and deflection turrets. Doing this will have freed-off the adjusting lead screws. Now tighten the locking nuts so that they JUST nip up the lead screws. Now read that again if you are a ham fisted butcher.... Just tighten sufficiently to nip-up the lead screw. You can test that it's tight enough by twisting the drum heads up and down the scales and watching the lead screw move in unison.

From this you can see that now the lead screws - the screws that control the movement of the graticle block - can be turned fairly easily because they are just nipped-up as opposed to absolutely screwed right down. To be fair, nipped up is all you, the average Jo out on the range at the weekend really needs. If you are going out stalking a Nazi Brigade Commander at Monte Casino or watching the demolition party attempting to blow a bridge on the advance into Antwerp, then you might need them screwed up xxxxing tight, but bear with me!

Next, take your rifle out onto the ranges and if you're zeroing in at, say, 300 or 400 yards (my ranges of choice) then set the deflection drum to zero and rhe range drum to 3 (or 4). Shoot 2 or 3 warmers into the bank to get the general idea of where you are, then fire a 5 round group into the target. You bring the MPI (the mean point of impact) of the group in USING THE LEAD SCREW ONLY, WITH A FORKED TOOL, just like JMore has shown you in his photo above. That is all you need. Do it a tad at a time knowing that a movement equating to 1 click will move the MPI 3" at 300 yards (or 4" at 400 yards). Within a few rounds, you'll be on target and a couple more, you'll be in the bull.

Which way to turn the leadscrew....., easy. You ALWAYS treat an optical graticle as a foresight and you remember the Armourers phrase
FORSIGHT INTO THE ERROR (backsight out of the error). So with a No32 graticle, just say to yourself C=D+R which means CLOCKWISE EQUALS DOWN AND RIGHT. Turn the leadscrew clockwise to bring the graticle DOWN and RIGHT.

Remember 'foresight into the error....., well, if you're bullets are going LOW, then LOWER the foresight - or in this case, the graticle. If you're going left then turn the leadscrew ANTI clockwise (don't forget, clockwise is right!)

When it all zeroed, fire a check group, clean the rifle and put it away. There's no need whatsoever to to clamp up the leadscrews more than that. They should be nipped up, just enough to be gripped sufficiently so that when you turn the drum, it turns the leadscrew. Nothing more and that's all there is to it.

Any questions.................. Range practice first thing on Saturday. Sgt Smith, make sure that they're ready, rifles clean, on the 300 yard firing point at 9 o'clock. Don't forget the ear boxes, flags, the phone and zeroing kit