The Found M1

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

Great rifle!
Thanks BAR for the video link. Now I can pass the time in case CMP ever ships my M-1.

Information

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[browningautorifle]

Field Manual No. 23-5

You understate...this is a MUST HAVE for a collector. Same as a correct era cartridge belt and suspenders and blade...1907 sling in this case...Borg-Warner clips...should I go on?

Now I can pass the time

Why wait? Start memorizing now...

Just don't assemble your sling like his or the DI will slash your bag...

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

You understate...this is a MUST HAVE for a collector. Same as a correct era cartridge belt and suspenders and blade...1907 sling in this case...Borg-Warner clips...should I go on?



Why wait? Start memorizing now...

Just don't assemble your sling like his or the DI will slash your bag...

I have been gathering accoutraments clips,slings,bayonets,belts and studying for months tormented by the GCA Journal and just now what to my wondering eyes should appear? An e-mail from CPM. It will not be long now. I hope they are able to honor my reqest for a WWII serial number. I gave up seeking a M-1 locally (could not bring myself to buy a CMP rifle at premium prices) . Wish me luck.

P.S. DI might get me on somthing but not the sling. Unless I take a hit for a repro I have been practicing on an 03-A3.

[browningautorifle]

I have a repro on my 7.62 shooter M1. That way I don't worry. I have a 1918 on my 3xx xxx LL...and the 1917 blade for it too.

DI will get you for forearm not level at the shoulder arms. Carrying your rifle like your daddy's shotgun...Bouncing while you're marching...

[read6737]

OK,
Right I have started to strip the M1.
It is durty. Dirty old dry oil / greese with dust.

The question is :-
do I clean or do i not clean ?

It is hard to see serial No,s withh the muck and
I dont have however any intention of ever shooting the gun
as
one, I do not want too,
two, I do not have any amo. no cases, Not a problem though as I can make the cases and everything else necessary to reload.
Three, I do not have any charger clips.
So to not touch just a take apart and record what I see may be one way.
To clean and remove all muck and re greese, well that is the other way.

The wood needs to be fed that is for sure, just one tiny crack in the top rear hand gard not a worry though.
The surfase of the blued areas have a patina a sort of corrosion with no pitting but the surfaces are not smooth.
I cannot see anything broken, there are now odd spots clean because I have worked the action a bit.
The internals are in a very good condition, just the tube has the patina as well.

For me to clean or not is a hard one.
Sorry spelling is a little off today.

[browningautorifle]

I would go ahead and clean it to stop further decay. Rust will consume it over time and should be dealt with. You don't have to strip it to silver but clean and oil and remove the greatest part of the rust. A varsol bath and some fine steel woll will probably do the most of it. The wood needs a drink for sure. There's many wood products available and the opinions of what exactly to use vary as much as the availability of product.

By the way, a full pic expose would be nice as you work...

[read6737]

There is no real rust but to prevent any other deteration I did gove it a a spray lube silicone, the wood I will give it a good drink with a thin wood oil, do use a lot of teak oil on my other stocks mainly as I like the smell and it is a non staining colour.

[Bob Seijas]

FWIW, the Preservation expert at SANHS insisted that "Wood does not need to be fed." He uses microwax on the collection.

[TDH]

I know I would.

[read6737]

Just started cleaning the M1.
I have started to put parts in to a sonic cleaner, there is alot of dry hars grease.
I am not going to take a wire brush or wire wool to the parts as I
want to preserve the patina that is there so mugh history in the ageing.
so NO polishing.
Does every part have a serial No ?
as I cannot see numbers on some parts.