Is that flat backed rear base not from a No.3 Rifle, or has someone modified it to fit one; or something else?
The trouble with cleaning all the pits out like that, aside from the loss of all patina and originality, is you end up with a moonscape that even blued will look odder and uglier than smoothed down rust would have.
So what do you do? When I was messing about with No32 MkI tubes I would mount them up in the lathe and polish the tubes, first with a very fine and sharp file (soak in vinegar a few days to sharpen), then emery cloth. One had to be very careful of the shallow electro-pencil markings.
Doesn't the Patt. 18 scope have a pretty thick tube? If the markings are deep enough you could try some smoothing on the lathe, but are you going to end up with a reblued tube and brass parts that are worn as they are now? That's not going to look very good.
The best approach with something like this is the slow one: hand tools, good light, good magnification and start in the inconspicuous spots. Fine stainless brushes in a Dremel can be very good for removing rust without removing all patina.
Of course before it goes near a file or a lathe, you'll need a tight fitting drift to get that dent out of the ocular "bell".
The other problem is that you have taken a scope that was dry and soaked it in what was probably a water-based solution, which may have migrated into spaces where it would have been much more to your advantage if a light or penetrating oil had gone instead. As well as helping you get the scope apart, that oil would have helped to soften the superficial rust scale so that you could scrape it off for example with a piece of brass or bronze, or some very fine steel wool.
So now, you'll need to heat it up enough for long enough to be sure you have driven out all the moisture from all the crevices and then soak it in some light/penetrating oil that will not damage the glass or the brass, so that down the road, you can get the internals out without damaging them or the tube.Information
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