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    Cut down a stock

    How hard is it to cut down a m96 stock to fit a m39 Swedishicon Mauser.any how to videos out there.
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Why go to all that trouble when Numrich(e-gunparts.com) has M38 stock sets for 62.95?
    But, to answer your question, for someone with woodworking skills and the proper tools it would be simple. To those without the skills and tools I figure it would be just as easy to ruin a good stock.
    Here's a stock set I got several years ago from Numrich to restore my bubba'd M38.
    Last edited by vintage hunter; 03-27-2013 at 01:32 PM.

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    I just finished mine about an hour ago. I don't exactly have the right woodworking tools or the skills for fine work but it came out ok. I am by trade a carpenter but I don't do a lot of fine work. I'm in the remodeling business so most of my stuff deals with large items like homes. It is not a simple task and it will probably take most more time than it took me since I do work with wood.

    I used a cordless drill,an oscillating saw, a small tape measure, a small straight edge, a brand new 1/4 wood chisel, a screw driver, a utility knife and two very small files, one course, one fine.

    I first took careful measurements, marked the position of the front band spring hole, lined it up with the rear band spring using the straight edge and then marked it with the utility knife.

    Cut the rectangle a bit deeper with the knife and then drilled two holes through it.

    Used the chisel and the two files to fit the spring and once it was flush with the wood, I again used the straight edge and then marked the rest of the spring with the utility knife.

    I then scored it a bit deeper and used the chisel to get it to the approximate depth. I used the screwdriver handle to tap the chisel so I wasn't forcing it too hard, just light taps, with a sharp chisel, it's easy to cut too much out. Once I got the spring fitting correctly, I then cut the excess wood off to the correct length using the oscillating saw.

    With the utility knife I fit the nose cap on taking a little off at a time until it fit correctly. I also used the coarse file to round everything out.

    With the nose cap on, I made sure the metal plate fit, this was the hardest part, getting the hole lined up in the wood. I missed slightly so the metal plate is a tiny bit loose but once the nose cap is on it's tight.

    From start to finish, it probably took me about an hour and a half. The end result can be viewed on the Restorer's Corner in the Swede needs lots of help thread.
    Last edited by Aragorn243; 03-27-2013 at 10:12 PM.

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