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    How to remove carry handle?

    How do you remove the carry handle from the barrel? And which end does if come off, muzzle or breach?

    Thanks!
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    Legacy Member tankhunter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grizzlypeg View Post
    How do you remove the carry handle from the barrel? And which end does if come off, muzzle or breach?

    Thanks!
    Err, You are not exactly clear as to what exactly you wish to remove in your statement. The carrying handle is an assembly comprising of many componants! If you simply wish to 'Remove the carrying handle'.
    Then the Axis screw that the wooden handle pivots on when you pull it outwards. Should be unscrewed & the handle simply pulled off it's stem. Are you wishing to remove the wood handle from the metal inner stem?
    If so, you will need the MKI multi tool which has a flip out selection of 'Blades' all specifically ground to fit individual componants to enable the whole gun to be stripped if required.
    If you wish to remove the WHOLE assembly from the barrel, IE> the metal bracket as well. That is a little more involved & can also be explained . But I have simply guessed as to what you would want to remove from the barrel assembly. The wood I can understand if you wish to refurbish or replace this part. The metal bracket assembly can happily stay in place, UNLESS it is rusted/defective in some way. And needs repair/refurbishment/replacement.
    If you wish to remove the COMPLETE assembly, then in the curved section of the web of the bracket assembly. You will observe TWO small cross pins & on TOP of the web in line with these two pins will be a drilling filled with a Plug. Put something over the TOP of this drilling to prevent the loss of this plug when you drift out the TOP pin with a paralell punch/drift. When you remove the plug, underneath is a spring. This will eject this plug & send it shooting accross the workshop, UNLESS you remove the plug carefully as it is under spring tension! Then remove the spring as well & put safely in a box/tin lid for later reassembly. It should be possible now to wiggle the handle about & the bottom retaining plunger remaining in the bracket assembly to move up a bit inside this. If you are having difficulty in this manouver, then also remove the other cross pin & shake out the plunger as well. Then the WHOLE assembly can be slid to the REAR/Breech end & removed from the barrel. Assembly is the reverse, except that the plug is inserted into the bracket with CARE as you will be compressing a strongish spring. When inserted sufficiently, put a drift/punch or a nail at a push through the hole to retain the plug. insert the cross pin & tap flush with the bracket web surface. dont forget to put a LIGHT centrepunch hole beside the pin into the bracket. This will prevent the pin from working out from the bracket & possible subsequent loss! Good Luck!
    Last edited by tankhunter; 11-23-2010 at 04:06 AM.

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    Reading that Tankie, I can just tell that you've removed one or two of those carring handles and sleeves. And lost a few of the springs AND the top thinggy before you've got the pin in properly! Join the club.

    One thing that you forgot to mention Tankie is that the inner and outer threads that hold the carrying handle to the inner metal sleeve are EXTREMELY fine, of about a zillion teeth per inch. Make sure that the nuts run freely on the shaft before you assemble them because if they're tight or bind, you'll never start them or clean them up if they start to cross thread. And yep, I've ruined a few of them too!

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    Legacy Member tankhunter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    Reading that Tankie, I can just tell that you've removed one or two of those carring handles and sleeves. And lost a few of the springs AND the top thinggy before you've got the pin in properly! Join the club.

    One thing that you forgot to mention Tankie is that the inner and outer threads that hold the carrying handle to the inner metal sleeve are EXTREMELY fine, of about a zillion teeth per inch. Make sure that the nuts run freely on the shaft before you assemble them because if they're tight or bind, you'll never start them or clean them up if they start to cross thread. And yep, I've ruined a few of them too!
    Oh Peter! You know only too well that you learn FAST when that happens! After the very first PING!........tinkle, tinkle & the Air turning blue with all the 'Where's that F******G plunger/spring Etc'!!!!
    I ALWAYS used a nicely ground long Tapered punch to guide through the handle bracket & then the pin hole in the plug to hold in place before CAREFULLY, & lightly tapping the retaining pin home whilst slowly withdrawing the pin punch. You know EXACTLY what i am discribing here! You remember, you need six hands to do all this at the same time! But then again, it is always the reputation around all Military camps that the Armourers Shop is a place of Magic & Mysterys that can only be solved & overcome by these Masters of Wonderment & Technical skilled Attributes! (Not my words, simply humbling parise from satisfied customers worldwide. Which Im sure you have enjoyed upon occassion!) LOL! You are correct, I forgot the words of caution as to the inner & outer threaded nuts in the top of the wood carrying handle. Peter is ABSOLUTELY correct with regards to the extreme fineness of threads inside these two items. They are Enfield threads & the taps & dies for these items are NOT Available commercially!! If you cross thread either of them, you have a serious probem if you do not have replacements! Peter, I effected a small procedure that eliminated this problem of potential crossthreading upon reassembly. I ensure the threads were clean & lightly oiled on the sleeve ends & the threads of the nuts. When offering up together for reassembly, UNSCREW the nuts SLOWLY until they 'click' as the nut drops slightly down after rising up on the last vestiges of the thread. When this has happened, you can then SLOWLY screw UP the nut easliy until correctly tight. very simple, but it WORKED a treat! Something you get used to doing as Workshop practice on nearly EVERY job when your out in the OOLLU in the middle of nowhere with NO spares! Of course, there is ALWAYS something that you didnt cater for!..........................OOPPS!.............. ...Ping.........Bugger!....+*$"!!*%£(*=#!!!!!!!!!
    Last edited by tankhunter; 11-23-2010 at 09:05 AM.

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    Thanks guys. Sorry for the vague request / description. I'm buying a barrel that doesnt have a carry handle on it, so I need to remove the complete carry handle assembly from my old barrel and reinstall it on the new one. I was hoping there was some simple trick, like lining up the handle with a certain position, but now I know. At least I don't have to remove the flash suppressor to get it off!

    I can only see one cross pin on the assembly, about half way up the bracket. Maybe I need to remove the pivoting handle from the bracket first to see the upper pin?
    Last edited by Grizzlypeg; 11-23-2010 at 09:28 AM.

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    You are right grizzlypig. Some (Canadianicon?) barrel carrying handle sleeves were made with only the top retaining pin. As apprentices, we made a set of the special forked screwdrivers used to unscrew the inner and outer threaded collar and nut. I've still got mine but like my nuts, it doesn't get used too much now

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    Yep, remove the screw which holds the handle on and you will find a pin under it. Thats the one to remove.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tankhunter View Post
    Oh Peter! You know only too well that you learn FAST when that happens! After the very first PING!........tinkle, tinkle & the Air turning blue with all the 'Where's that F******G plunger/spring Etc'!!!!
    I ALWAYS used a nicely ground long Tapered punch to guide through the handle bracket & then the pin hole in the plug to hold in place before CAREFULLY, & lightly tapping the retaining pin home whilst slowly withdrawing the pin punch. You know EXACTLY what i am discribing here! You remember, you need six hands to do all this at the same time! But then again, it is always the reputation around all Military camps that the Armourers Shop is a place of Magic & Mysterys that can only be solved & overcome by these Masters of Wonderment & Technical skilled Attributes! (Not my words, simply humbling parise from satisfied customers worldwide. Which Im sure you have enjoyed upon occassion!) LOL! You are correct, I forgot the words of caution as to the inner & outer threaded nuts in the top of the wood carrying handle. Peter is ABSOLUTELY correct with regards to the extreme fineness of threads inside these two items. They are Enfield threads & the taps & dies for these items are NOT Available commercially!! If you cross thread either of them, you have a serious probem if you do not have replacements! Peter, I effected a small procedure that eliminated this problem of potential crossthreading upon reassembly. I ensure the threads were clean & lightly oiled on the sleeve ends & the threads of the nuts. When offering up together for reassembly, UNSCREW the nuts SLOWLY until they 'click' as the nut drops slightly down after rising up on the last vestiges of the thread. When this has happened, you can then SLOWLY screw UP the nut easliy until correctly tight. very simple, but it WORKED a treat! Something you get used to doing as Workshop practice on nearly EVERY job when your out in the OOLLU in the middle of nowhere with NO spares! Of course, there is ALWAYS something that you didnt cater for!..........................OOPPS!.............. ...Ping.........Bugger!....+*$"!!*%£(*=#!!!!!!!!!
    Reminds me of the old Ford Synchro mesh:- Wrap in cloth THEN force centre out. Otherwise ` Click, ping and the detent balls could do serious injury ! '

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    Thanks for the advice. I did the swap of the handle assembly over to the new barrel last night. Went quite easy. My deactivated bren is starting to look a lot more complete with a magazine and flash suppressor on it now.

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