Extreme Linseeding

[nijalninja]

G'day there, just an idea I had a little while ago to get linseed back into really dried up old stocks.

I was thinking that rather than applying 56 coatings of Linseed, letting it sit, then wiping it off (Though this does wonders on removing gunk from the visible surface of the wood), I could make up tubes and fill them with linseed for my fore-ends and handguards and so on to sit in for a certain amount of time to try and let the linseed soak in on its own. Then just wipe it all down and be on my merry way.

IS THIS TOO EXTREME? If it is for old stocks I might keep it purely for axe handles and the like. Just seems like an easier more effective way to rejuvenate the old wood on my rifles.

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[CINDERS]

Try anything once Nijal and go from there all us fence sitters will await the results, I cannot see it damaging it like perhaps soaking it in water as it will only take so much linseed oil wont it.

[nijalninja]

Pretty much my thoughts exactly Cinders. I have a few sporter stocks I try all my repairs on before working on my nice rifles so I will use them first, but still figured it was worth asking.

[MosinVirus]

Won't the uncured linseed oil rot the wood?

The whole idea behind applying a bit and letting it cure for a long time between applications is to prevent uncured oil from ending up under cured oil.

[Brian Dick]

During their service life visits to workshops, wood was submerged in a warmed tank of raw linseed oil, sometimes for 24 hours and then removed and left to drip dry. It won't damage anything. That's what was done.

[MosinVirus]

During their service life visits to workshops, wood was submerged in a warmed tank of raw linseed oil, sometimes for 24 hours and then removed and left to drip dry. It won't damage anything. That's what was done.

Sorry, just reread your post where you clearly said raw linseed.

[Brian Dick]

Yes, boiled linseed was never used. It has chemicals in it to make it dry quicker. I steer clear of it. I just ordered a new gallon of RLO. It's out there for those who think it isn't available.

[nijalninja]

Yeah I never touch boiled linseed with my rifles anymore, but lucky for us in aus there is a company that makes and sells RLO in decently large bottles. Hopefully this might save me some time. I'll post up results on a sporter stock when I get around to sorting it out.

[painter777]

PVC pipe with one end glued/capped the other end with glued on threaded connection that a cap can be screwed on.
Spray painting it black helps keep the RLO warm.
Afterward I collect the drained off RLO and strain it back into the tube.... Add a light sprinkle of Mineral spirits on the surface to keep it from skimming. Cap screwed back on and stood upright until needed again.

I make sure all my work is complete on the stock or HG's before dropping in the oil tube.

To Draw oil grime out:
I've used a Black tube like this to put stocks and HG's in to bake in the sun light to pull old oil from those stocks that never seem to release years of old oils, cosmo and grease.. etc.
I just wrap the wood in paper towels, using masking tape to keep the paper towels on tightly before dropping in the tube.

Good luck

[Sunray]

"...does wonders on removing gunk..." It doesn't actually. Just moves it around. And 56 coating on gunked up wood just gunks it up more. The old oil needs to be removed and the wood cleaned first.
Raw Linseed can take a week or more to dry. BLO dries and gives a harder finish. BLO used during W.W. I and II wasn't the same stuff we have. It was literally boiled and filtered.
None of that will stop the endless arguing about which to use. Using pure Tung Oil, not Tung Oil Finish, is better anyway. PTO gives a hard, water proof finish that brings the grain out.