+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 32

Thread: Collector restoring SMLE MkIII* HT

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size
  1. #1
    Legacy Member SMLE Aussie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Last On
    02-19-2022 @ 08:16 PM
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    9
    Real Name
    Lee Hunter
    Local Date
    11-01-2024
    Local Time
    09:20 AM

    Arrow Collector restoring SMLE MkIII* HT

    Hi everyone - I'm a collector of Britishicon Commonwealth militaria and a long time member of the Historical Arms Collectors here in Australiaicon.

    I have recently acquired a rusty SMLE No1 MkIII (1917 Lithgow) that turned out being a genuine HT. It had been placed in secure store by the previous owner while in hospital for 10 months, but the store had been flooded and his entire collection remained there under water. I fortunately happened upon it 30mins after having been brought into a gun shop I frequent - it still had water in the action! The wood looked promising, so I bought it for $100 with the intention of removing the action and later swapping it for one in good condition. No-one had noticed the 'H' on the butt as the bolt was rusted open and had covered it. Upon finally removing the bolt I found the 'H'. Light wire brush on the serial number and sure enough, genuine Lithgow HT sniper.

    Anyway, I'm now committed to restoring it, but have quite a few questions for SMLE experts on the forum!

    I have managed to get it apart, and the stock is coming along nicely (3 boils, steaming, restoring oil...). Have acquired a replacement heavy barrel, and am stripping the rust off old parts with molasses. I want to restore the nose cap as it has matching numbers - but it is badly pitted. Ultimately, I need advice on things like coating. Original SMLE snipers were painted olive drab over the blueing - but what parts? I can't seem to find out if it was just the action and barrel, or also the nosecap, trigger guard, rear sight etc.

    Anyway, I look forward to discussing my not so little project!

    Cheers
    Lee
    Information
    Warning: This is a relatively older thread
    This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.
    Last edited by Badger; 04-26-2015 at 07:04 AM.

  2. The Following 4 Members Say Thank You to SMLE Aussie For This Useful Post:


  3. # ADS
    Friends and Sponsors
    Join Date
    October 2006
    Location
    Milsurps.Com
    Posts
    All Threads
    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  4. #2
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 06:59 PM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    30,402
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    10-31-2024
    Local Time
    04:20 PM
    We do have a thread here about de-rusting using reverse electrolysis...this one would be hard. Once you have pitting that is. I'd probably go with a glass bead and blue to refurbish but that won't "Solve" the pitting and woodwork problems. It will get the rust off though, so you have a start point and can see where you are.
    Regards, Jim

  5. The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to browningautorifle For This Useful Post:


  6. Avoid Ads - Become a Contributing Member - Click HERE
  7. #3
    Legacy Member SMLE Aussie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Last On
    02-19-2022 @ 08:16 PM
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    9
    Real Name
    Lee Hunter
    Local Date
    11-01-2024
    Local Time
    09:20 AM
    Thread Starter
    Hi Jim - thanks for that, I'll go and have a search.

    I received some carbon graphite electrodes in the mail today actually - so I am keen to give the electrolysis a go. I had the nose cap, rear sight protectors and trigger guard in molasses and water (1:7) for about 4-5 days as a bit of an experiment - I figured those parts couldn't get any worse. I was quite surprised at the results. Certainly removed the rust, but of course the pitting is the problem. Anyway, I have spent quite some time hand filing the nose cap and have been very surprised at the results thus far. I would say about 80% of the pitting is now gone, and I am hoping to get rid of some more. I'll then polish it with 320 abrasive paper and see how it looks - hopefully I'll have it to a point where it can be glass beaded and then blued. Won't get rid of all the pitting, but hopefully it won't look like it spent 10months wet when I am finished with it. I'll post a pic when I'm happy with it. I was thinking of trying electrolysis on the action.

    Cheers
    Lee

  8. #4
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 06:59 PM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    30,402
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    10-31-2024
    Local Time
    04:20 PM
    You might have to remove a great deal of material before you're done with the nose cap...yes, the action will be difficult because you can't remove much. Pics as you go would be good, we're always interested in how this proceeds...
    Regards, Jim

  9. #5
    Advisory Panel
    Peter Laidler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    10-20-2024 @ 05:01 AM
    Location
    Abingdon, Oxfordshire. The home of MG Cars
    Posts
    16,569
    Real Name
    Peter Laidler
    Local Date
    11-01-2024
    Local Time
    12:20 AM
    To be really honest, while it's fairly pitted and rusty, we used to see plenty of No5's, shotguns and L1A1's like that in our base workshops in Malaya, especially under the woodwork. But once they'd been bead blasted and sent through the phosphating plant they were as good as gold (subject to a barrel inspection of course). Ours were then painted hard black and baked in the oven. If yours is going to be painted matt khaki and baked(?) anyway, then why bother hiding its past? It is what it is and the slightly pitted surface is a part of its history. EVERYTHING made of steel is going to go the same way eventually......... And some - not me you understand although I sympathise with this point of view - would argue that by filing and linishing it all out it smacks of a bit of dishonesty.

    And here's another point to ponder........ All this filing and linishing is removing metal. And you can't put it back.

    Been there, done that, seen loads of them. The original finish is lost. Just bead blast, phosphate and paint. It is then protected for good and you've saved another sniper rifle
    Pete the Pom. REME Armourer 4 and 8 RAR

  10. The Following 4 Members Say Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:


  11. #6
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 06:59 PM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    30,402
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    10-31-2024
    Local Time
    04:20 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    anyway, then why bother hiding its past?
    Good point Peter...
    Regards, Jim

  12. #7
    Legacy Member SMLE Aussie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Last On
    02-19-2022 @ 08:16 PM
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    9
    Real Name
    Lee Hunter
    Local Date
    11-01-2024
    Local Time
    09:20 AM
    Thread Starter
    Hi Peter - I do somewhat agree with you, though after 10 months in water it needed some treatment (and the barrel was absolutely cactus) - it is a balance between restoration and conservation. I'm happy just getting it to a point where it is presentable, and more importantly, back to a shooting state. To be honest, at $100 I am really treating it as an opportunity to try different ideas and techniques, hence joining Milsurps. I certainly am not trying to make it out to be something it isn't. I had actually bought another nose cap, but was keen to see how this would come up given, once some rust was removed, it had matching numbers. Can't take the pits from around the number as I wouldn't have one! I'm just happy to have saved it from being cut up (which was where it was heading). Also happy to have something that didn't cost a fortune to get a chance to learn on.

    As for coating, that, for me, is the question. The action and barrel should khaki or drab, but I'm not certain how they originally treated the nose cap, trigger guard, outer band, rear sight and rear sight protector should be finished. From what I could tell when I removed the parts (under the rust), the undersides were all painted, but I couldn't tell if all of these parts were originally left blued on the outside or had also been painted? Same question for the mounts and rings (assuming I can ever find a set!). Would like to faithfully restore it... though I had been even thinking getting a the action and barrel Cerakoted. Any advice would be greatly welcome! Very much appreciating all your input.

    Lee

  13. Thank You to SMLE Aussie For This Useful Post:


  14. #8
    Contributing Member mmppres's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Last On
    10-10-2024 @ 08:58 AM
    Location
    butler pa
    Age
    59
    Posts
    1,098
    Real Name
    mike
    Local Date
    10-31-2024
    Local Time
    07:20 PM
    can not wait to see pictures
    how does the molasses work on the rust

  15. #9
    Legacy Member SMLE Aussie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Last On
    02-19-2022 @ 08:16 PM
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    9
    Real Name
    Lee Hunter
    Local Date
    11-01-2024
    Local Time
    09:20 AM
    Thread Starter
    Hi Mike - well, I can honestly say I was very happy with the molasses. It certainly removed the rust to show the pitting - a great first step. Can't say how it compares to electrolysis, but I will give that a try on the second rifle I got from the rusty collection and compare the results.

    You can see the condition of the parts, particularly the nose cap, before putting it in the molasses an water. Ratio was 1 part molasses to 7 parts water (500ml and 3500ml). Not much happened for the first two days, however, I had read that it can be worth giving the parts a light scrub to remove the layers of converted rust before putting them back. Simply used nylon pot scrubbing pads and rubbed lightly. The rust on the surface had become black, and a lot of this rubbed off to expose more rust underneath. Put all the pieces back in for a couple more days. On the 5 day I removed, rinsed and dried the nose cap. I was concerned it would start to show some surface rust fairly quickly as some people had noted. No problems. You can see the nose cap after rinsing and drying but before filing. If you look closely you can see lots of pitting, but no rust. Any rust residue had been neutralised and turned black - which made filing them out easier. The rear sight protector was more heavily rusted and took another two days of soaking. It was heavily pitted but I have managed to remove a lot of the light stuff, and it is now useable as well.

    Attachment 62349Attachment 62350Attachment 62351Attachment 62352Attachment 62353Attachment 62354

    You can see the nose cap after filing. I was very surprised how it started to come up. It would be virtually impossible to remove all of the deep pitting, but my goal was to get it to a point where I would be happy to utilise it, still trying to keep most of the original parts. You can see the matching number - I must say if I hadn't seen the '74' through the rust I may not have bothered.

    Next job is to finish it off with abrasive paper (320 grit) and remove the filing marks. I'll polish it like a shoe so as to try and get it looking a little like the original grain, which ran around the cap. The filing was not so heavy as to remove some of the original milling and filing marks. You can also see that the much of the original paint is still intact on the inside!

    The magazine was almost rusted through, so I have left that in the molasses to see what happens. I have now put the receiver in and so far am very happy with how it is going. I'll post pics when it is out.

    Anyway, hope this is of some use.

    Cheers
    Lee

  16. The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to SMLE Aussie For This Useful Post:


  17. #10
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 06:59 PM
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    30,402
    Real Name
    Jim
    Local Date
    10-31-2024
    Local Time
    04:20 PM
    I was hoping your process was easier than say, navy jelly but sadly no. Looks like there'll still be some pits at the end, which is fine...
    Regards, Jim

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Smle n0.1 mkiii*
    By bosco555 in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-18-2012, 08:28 AM
  2. The process of restoring a SMLE No1 MkV .....
    By Badger in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12-30-2010, 03:40 PM
  3. SMLE MKIII* .22 Caliber
    By NMC_EXP in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 11-11-2010, 04:11 AM
  4. New SMLE MkIII
    By NP2650 in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-10-2009, 07:52 PM
  5. Restoring parker hale SMLE
    By LeeEnfieldNo.4_Mk1 in forum The Restorer's Corner
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-28-2009, 10:27 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts