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What to look for in a K31
Hello,
First time posting in the Swiss section here, even though I have considered the K31 to be a pretty interesting gun. Anyway, I know a dealer with 2 of them, in the $300 range. So, besides things like matching numbers and bore condition, is there anything specific to look for in a K31? (Especially since I am going to be choosing between 2 of them) Also, is $300 a reasonable price for a nice overall K31? From my research iot seems to be. Looking forward to your replies.
Thanks,
Jim
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10-25-2011 09:18 PM
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Thanks for the reply, nice looking k31's.
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The ones I have to choose from are nearly identical. They both match in overall condition, they have matching serial numbers on teh receiver, bolt, and magazine. The bores have some grease in them but look like they could clean up well.
The serial numbers are: 970787 on the first rifle and 235287 on the other. Here: http://www.radix.net/~bbrown/schmidt...ml#manufacture I do not see the year for the number 235287, what does that mean?
The photos are of the two different rifles.
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#970787=1951
#235287=1954
If possible run a patch down each bore and look close at the lands and grooves. Most are in very good condition but some may have a high round count. If you can, look under the butt plate at the stock date and if it has a troop tag. Otherwise pick the one with the least visible wear.
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I'm looking at one for sale online locally that looks pretty good. The stock is refinished, but original with really nice tiger striping. It comes with a bayo and scabberd, 100 rds of ammo, muzzle guard and no sling for $425. Any features I should be looking for that would make it more or less desireable? I'll probably buy it anyway, if I can trick...er...convince the wife, but it would be nice to have a better idea of what I'd be looking at, and know what to ask the guy over the phone.
Thanks!
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What to look for in K31....
A few things that might help you out in your decision-making -
1. Pre-1944 K31 will usually have a walnut stock - post '44 will be beech unless they have been replaced by left-over items.
2 It's already been mentioned that you'll never know how many rounds have gone down it - this does not matter too much as the Swiss used a VERY high-quality high chrome content steel in their barrels - my 1914 K11 has have at least ten thousand rounds of GP11 down it by me since 1979, and does not shoot any differently. The bore, when clean, should look as though it has been chromed from end to end - they mostly do and I've never seen a bad one.
3. The Swiss NEVER oiled their straight-pull guns - they used stuff called 'waffenfett' a light yellowy grease - on EVERYTHING - from the bore [as a cleaner] to the woodwork [as a water-proofer]. Please do the same with by using any modern high-quality yellow grease.
4. Ensure that the magazine matches - spares ARE available, but prices can be eye-watering for what is basically a tin box. Think around $60-80... of course, it will not have the serial number on it either.
5. See if it comes with the magazine chargers - they appear to be made of varnished cardboard and tin - they are, in fact, made of varnished cardboard and tin but last forever. Mine have served me well for the last 30-something years...
6. Check out the foresight to see if some klutz has been at it with a large hammer - a real adjustment tool is easy to find but many of us use a simple modified nut-splitter. There ARE dedicated and genuine devices that CAN cost you many hundreds of $$$$$$ - I have a few just for fun, but they are really not needed.
I'm sure by now that you've found the sister forum - swissrifles.com - dedicated to Swiss schtuff. There is a wealth of reloading data there too, as well as many 'how-to's.
It is my opinion that there is no finer military arm of its kind on the planet than a well-cared for K31 or IG11 - mine are both capable of sub-minute shooting with issue ammunition, let alone reloads.
...and one thing is certain, Swiss flu gets you - you cannot possibly have just one...
tac