1903a3 i.d.

[U.S.Patriot]

Would someone give a newbe some info on his new 1903a3? what do the marks stand for? what year?month of Manufacture? the Barrell is addressed as 11-43, the stamps near the trigger guard? Photos should be here!! Thank you

Information

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[JGaynor]

Would someone give a newbe some info on his new 1903a3? what do the marks stand for? what year?month of Manufacture? the Barrell is addressed as 11-43, the stamps near the trigger guard? Photos should be here!! Thank you

Pic 1 The "P" in the circular surround indicates the rifle successfully passed a test with a high presssure proof cartridge. The "A" is a sub-inspector's mark possibly the person who did the proof test.
pIc 2 The boxed "FJA" indicates approval of the final inspection by the ordnance dept's man in the Remington plant.The initials stand for Col Frank J Atwood who was in overall charge of contract manufacture for the Rochester Ordnance District.The Crest is a Cannoneers belt surrounding crossed cannon and topped by the ordnance flaming bomb. It indicates acceptance by the Ordnace Dept. There should be an "RA" Stamp nearby but it may have been worn or sanded away.
Pic 3 United Staes property, the maker's name, the model and serial numbers.
Pic 4 Sub-inspectors marks. As the rifle passed various inspections the inspectors applied their mark.
Pic 5 Makers initials (Remington Arms), Ordnance bomb, Month and date the barrel was manufactured - the rifle assembly may have been somewhat later. Probably January 1944.
Pic 6 Boxed "RIA/EB" Indicates the rifle went to Rock Island Arsenal for Clean&Repair or Rebuild under the supervision of Elmer Bjerke sometime after 1947.
Pic 7 Last four digits of the Seriai Number engraved on the bolt root probably by a foreign nation who received the rifle as military assistance.

Regards.
Jim

[Mike D]

You won't find an "RA" on that stock. It's a Smith Corona.

How 'bout a right side shot of the whole rifle? Thanks, Mike

[U.S.Patriot]

Outstanding, thanks so much for your info. So this is pretty much a Original 1903A3? I did not mention that I found out the front site cover was a #10 which is larger that the one's issue, however I do not know why they are called #10's and who used them and when they used them, any help there?

[U.S.Patriot]

I will post a few more photo's, the only thing on the right side is the serial number on the stock.

[U.S.Patriot]

One photo is an repair it looks like, nothing on the right side except the serial number, and other photos with markings, what does the #24 represent?

[Chuckindenver]

iv seen this rifle someplace before...have a picture of the cutoff area?

[emmagee1917]

No , it's not original . It is a Remington rifle that has gone through a rebuild at Rock Island Arsenal ( ID 'd by the RIA over EB stamp ) where it picked up the Smith Corona stock ( ID 'd by the four marks ahead of the mag. ) This is if it left RIA in this stock . The stock could have been switched from the rifle that actually wore it to this one , no way to be sure. The number stamp added to the stock would tend to support that they've been together a while . The last four digits were added to the bolt and stock by a nation that had it for awhile. The "24" is prob'ly a rack position number also added by said nation.
Chris

[U.S.Patriot]

Not sure what cut off area is?

[Randy A]

Your front sight cover is not a #10 (that is a size reference to 1903 rear sights used with the USMC front sight blade, .100 hole). Your front sight hood is a USMC cover, congrats, they're fetching about $75.00 now days. That hood is designed for a 1903 and is meant to be left in place while shooting, unlike all of the others. They are nicer to have with the A3's when the A blade is used, since it almost hits the standard sight cover. You may notice that the tip of the front blade is still not in the center of the "aperature" of the hood,,,, this will most likely raise hell with your shooting since people have a tendancy to "center the rings". Also if you plan on removing it to shoot,,, you might not enjoy that, they are heavier steel and hardened. I wouldn't recommend trying to tweak it either, they're hardened to the point they're brittle and easily fracture before they bend.