C96 cycling issue

[garra]

Not sure if this is the correct title, but here is the problem I have. I have a C96 that I puchased years ago that had been relined and restored. The springs were not replaced so I bought a set and replaced all the springs. What happens is when it is fired and it cycles for the next round it will not fire until I lightly touch the bolt pushing it forward. The amount its moves is not even a couple of thousands. But no matter, out of 10 shots I feel that I have to touch the bolt 7 times. I have removed the recoil spring and stoned the leading edges just in case there was a burr. Just don't have idea what is wrong.

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[jmoore]

I've seen this before, but it's been a LONG time. The firing linkage is tied to the locking block somehow....Dang, its not coming back very fast...

I seem to remember that the small "L" shaped connector from the trigger to the sear proper was the culprit- its all hand fit stuff...

Maybe later?

[garra]

I am beginning to think it is a linkage issue too. I was messing around with it yesterday and I noticed that the problem is centered between the halfs where the gun seperates. If the top half is pushed slightly forward to take up the small slack it can fire, if pressure is placed toward the rear on the top half, it won't. So it appears that something is just slightly out of adjustment, but what. I do have some manuals on it, so I will continue to fiddle with it.
At least I can duplicate the problem without firing it, makes it little easier.

[JBS]

Remove, inspect, and clean your Rocker Plunger, Mainspring, and Mainspring Plunger. Replace the Mainspring if weak or collapsed.

[garra]

Thanks JBS,

I ordered new springs from Wolf yesterday, cause if I remember correctly I didn't replace the main spring when I did the recoil, firing pin and magazine.

When I was checking safety issues in the pub I had, it mentioned changing the main when the recoil was changed.

regards,

[garra]

Got my springs from Wolff, changed the main spring which was quite a bit longer than the one in there. Gun still exhibits the same problem, Everything is clean, no grease build up, did notice the searer is worn on both sides of the flat, not sure if that may be contributing to problem. Rocker plunger looked good, looks like I put it back together OK, had my doubts a couple of times. If anything seems flackey is the safety mechanism, if you can call it that, flops around and you can get it to release the hammer, but it looks like it just keeps it from hitting the back of the bolt.

[jmoore]

The "safety" is kind of scary when its the hammer release style! Don't trust 'em myself. I hold onto the hammer and ease it down when applying the safety. There's three different styles of safety if I remember correctly, and they can give fits too.

Does the pistol work when the safety's not installed? Otherwise you'll be looking at the parts interaction again. "C***ese" puzzles sometimes!

[garra]

Of all the parts that look suspect it is the sear latch or retainer as it is sometimes referred to on some of the parts lists I have seen. It is the one that has the most distinct wear on it, not sure which side is the offending one, but the side facing the rear has the most about 1mm kind of ragged in that respect. I will remove the safety to see if tht is part of the problem, when messing with it if I played with that when it would not release the hammer it sometimes would.
I have been checking around on the internet for a new sear, Numrich is out, sent and inquiry to an site in Kentucky, not many obtions available. Can it be built up and rehardened??

[jmoore]

The safety? Possible, but very tricky. The forward arm acts as its own spring, so getting it too hard will lead to breakage. Too soft and it wears quickly. If you had a spare that's not good to test first it would be best. That or find one of the experienced restorers of these pistols- they're out there.

The sear parts aren't as touchy, in general, you ought to be able to have it TIG welded w/o much drama. Use an air hardening filler (hardfacing) to minimize wear. Otherwise reheat treat the whole thing. I'm liking the hardfacing for most stuff like this, lots easier to deal with, except for the matter of removing the excess, sometimes. Surface, or tool and cutter grinder is good for keeping things in proper geometry. (Dremel wheel mounted in a drill press can be made to work as well, w/ a bit of fixturing ingenuity)

[garra]

I am not familiar with hard facing, case hardening yes, but I don't know anything about the process, I do have access to a tig welder and surface grinders so it can be re shaped as required. I'm sure hardening items will come up again, can you recommend any reference material I can go to?

I did find another sear from the fellow in Kentucky for $25.00, so maybe it will solve the problem. Not sure what I will get but it at least gives me a spare to experiment with.