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Legacy Member
Upper hand guard flies off
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08-29-2011 03:40 PM
# ADS
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Pictures please of both receiver where hand guard metal fits and hand guard front and back. Sumpin ain't right fo sho!
Bill Hollinger
"We're surrounded, that simplifies our problem!"
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Legacy Member
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Advisory Panel
The space at the front of the band allows for the forward movement. If you changed the spring or the band you might eliminate the movement. Is it a manufacturer correct carbine? Do the specific parts matter?
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firstflabn
Guest
Before you try to install the handguard (and with the front band out of the way), about how much of a gap is there between the underside of the barrel and the barrel channel at the nose of the stock?
With the front band still out of the way, how much do you have to raise the muzzle to allow the handguard to slip under the lip?
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Legacy Member
It looks like the hole in the stock is elongated
That would move the spring further forward. If it is in fact elongated I'd slip a matchstick in the hole and put the spring in BEHIND the stick, moving it back where it belongs and closing up that gap.
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Legacy Member
Would the wood drying out from age make it 'shrink' enough to make this happen? Would a good soaking in something help it to swell back up a bit creating a better fit? If so, what would be the process to do it right without hurting the stock?
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firstflabn
Guest
Could be stretched a little, but that's not the cause of the problem at the rear. Anyway, the semi-pointed tip at the rear of the spring aligns with the centerline of the spindle (not its rear edge), so if the hole is stretched, it appears to be minimal. If it was as loose as first appears, it would fall out of the hole by itself. The back edge of the hole as we're looking at it should be 1/16" beyond the pointy tip of the spring. It's an easy matter to check how tight the spindle is in the hole by partially removing the spindle and rotating the spring. If it's reasonably tight, it's fine. If not, wrapping with tape or some other kind of shimming material should do it. The front lip on the handguard allows for some leeway as it's almost 3/16" wide.
Until the handguard can move back far enough to seat under the lip, the front band will be skewed and unable to bear fully on the stock and handguard front lip. Only after fixing the back end does the spring become a consideration. If it is loose in its hole, the effect would be to lose the pressure it applies to the underside of the band. That can be checked by placing a temporary shim under the spring in the slot in the stock to slightly raise the spindle out of its hole.
Most importantly, the OP needs to understand how the system works; then, since only he has the carbine in his hands and can determine by feel what's going on, can create his own a solution.
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You might just try substituting another hand guard to see how it fits. That might be educational to see where the gaps are.
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Legacy Member
So i just swapped out the hand guard with another one I had laying around and it fits much better and has no noticeable slop. When I put the two guards side by side, one is almost 1/8 inch longer end to end then the other. Could this be from age shrinkage?
Also, Can you please verify for me that since my carbine is a Standard Products, and the guard that I started with which is marked S-HB matched my stock which is also S-HB, the new guard which is marked SJ is still appropriate for a 1943 SP?
Thanks
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