New (to me) Mk III

[watermoccasin]

Hi all,

I've got a Mk III now, with the stock sporterized, but the rest of the rifle in original military configuration. I think it was sporterized in England, most likely (there's a stamp on the barrel that reads "NOT ENGLISH MAKE"). There's another stamp that says .303 Nitro Proved. Is this gun going to be safe to shoot with regular .303?

It appears to have its original pull-through stowed in the butt, which is nice, but there aren't a lot of visible markings on the butt. My phone's camera isn't great, but I will try to post some pictures in the next week or so, when I will hopefully have access to a better camera.

Could anyone tell me a bit about the likely history of this rifle? Also, does anyone have a photo of a riveted bolt sleeve lying around? I am curious as to whether or not this rifle has one. It looks to have a rivet on the top of the bolt sleeve, on the left-hand side, about the middle of the bolt, but I am not sure if this is the rivet, so to speak.

Information

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[buffdog]

The stamped markings on the barrel show that this rifle was sporterized and proofed in England. It should be safe to fire with regular .303 ammunition, but it would be best to have a gunsmith check it over. There might also be other markings on the barrel such as proof marks, and chamber modification marks ( E, N or LC). Good pictures help in telling the story of your rifle.

The rivet is in the bolt carrier, about half way up it, towards the top left side. It sounds like you have this modification. The big thing on the M-10 Ross is incorrect bolt assembly. There is a sticky and lots of information on this. Briefly, with the bolt assembled, insert the bolt into the rifle but not fully closed. If there is about one inch of space showing between the bolt lugs and the bolt carrier body, then you are all right. If you have only about 1/4 inch, your bolt is assembled wrong.

You can also check by shining a LED flashlight into the rear of the receiver opening, while closing the bolt and watching the lugs turn. If they turn about 90 degrees and fully lock, you are all right, but IF YOU CAN SEE THE LUGS TURN ONLY ABOUT 1/6 OF A TURN AND LOTS OF LUG IS STILL VISIBLE, YOUR BOLT IS ASSEMBLED WRONG.

IF THIS IS THE CASE, DO NOT FIRE THE RIFLE AS THE BOLT WILL COME BACK AND INJURE YOUR FACE, SPOILING YOUR WHOLE DAY.

Do not be surprised if your brass looks blown out when you do fire the rifle. The chambers were enlarged to accommodate wartime production ammunition that had generous tolerances. Most Ross M-10 rifles had this modification, and the solution if you reload is to neck size your brass only.

If your stock is not sanded too badly, and there are still markings on the rear right side of the butt stock, they can tell you of the history of this rifle, units it was issued to, etc. If you have access to a "black light" the same as stamp collectors use to look for watermarks on stamps, then these markings MIGHT be a lot more visible if they have not been sanded too much.
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[watermoccasin]

Took me a while, but here's my Ross! Is that rivet in the middle of the shroud the "keep-a-bolt-from-hitting-you-in-the-forehead-rivet"? I think it is, but want to be sure.

[smellie]

Yes, your bolt IS pinned.

Perhaps I'm paranoid, but I check them ALL before I shoot them, even the pinned ones.

Just pull the bolt back halfway: there should be an INCH between the front of the bolt-sleeve and the rear of the bolt-lugs.
It can only sit TWO ways: ONE INCH and one-QUARTER inch.

QUARTER inch is dangerous, INCH is SAFE.

The rifle can NOT get out of whack by itself; it REQUIRES human intervention to make it dangerous, even if it is not pinned.

Pinning makes it impossible to assemble the bolt wrong (and miserable to assemble right!).

Have fun!
.

[watermoccasin]

Thanks!

[Surpmil]

Hi all,

I've got a Mk III now, with the stock sporterized, but the rest of the rifle in original military configuration. I think it was sporterized in England, most likely (there's a stamp on the barrel that reads "NOT ENGLISH MAKE"). There's another stamp that says .303 Nitro Proved. Is this gun going to be safe to shoot with regular .303?

It appears to have its original pull-through stowed in the butt, which is nice, but there aren't a lot of visible markings on the butt. My phone's camera isn't great, but I will try to post some pictures in the next week or so, when I will hopefully have access to a better camera.

Could anyone tell me a bit about the likely history of this rifle? Also, does anyone have a photo of a riveted bolt sleeve lying around? I am curious as to whether or not this rifle has one. It looks to have a rivet on the top of the bolt sleeve, on the left-hand side, about the middle of the bolt, but I am not sure if this is the rivet, so to speak.

I just picked up one very similar by the sound of it: "Not English Make" "BM" under a crown proofs on barrel ring, bolt sleeve and bolt head, cut to 24 inches with original foresight set back as per original.

There is an "E" on the barrel reinforce, but the chamber doesn't look enlarged to my eye. Shooting will soon prove either way.

The bolt is pinned, and I think this is a 1950s UK sporterization. The stock is cut down and tapered, rather roughly, recoil pad added after they chopped a good inch off the butt, removing all the markings with that and a heavy sanding.

Barrel looks very good and it should be a great shooter.

All the case colours are still on the bolt and bluing looks original. Magazine is pitted, then scrubbed and blued over outside the woodwork so I'm guessing they chopped down rifles that had such problems.

Rifle really looks like it was never issued, just stored badly.