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Longbranch rebuild
Not sure if this is where this should go. If not, feel free to move it.
I recently acquired a bubbatized longbranch No.4 MkI*. The forend was cut down, and the barrel was cut back to the front sight base. That being the case, I thought it would be a good candidate for a sniper build with a new criterion barrel.
I was able to get some NOS South African wood to replace the butchered forend. Regarding that, I have a few questions for the members here.
Do I need to soak it in RLO? I want to stain it like walnut. Should I do that before or after the oil?
Also, since there isn't so much concern for absolute correctness, are there any accurizing techniques you recommend? I've heard that some get good results by bedding in a contact point at the lower band.
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11-19-2019 11:43 AM
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Legacy Member
It's going to be a Bubba'd rifle anyway so what you use as a wood finish won't matter. I'd suggest Pure Tung Oil instead of RLO or BLO. When properly rubbed in(one coat per day with 24 hours drying time between coats using a new lint free cloth every day.), it gives a hard, shiney(more of a sheen), waterproof finish that keeps everything else out.
Any stain must go on before any oil, but especially Pure Tung Oil.
Make sure your smithy knows what he's doing when he installs the barrel. If he doesn't have the right tools, as in barrel vise and action wrench, it's easy to twist an Enfield receiver. And proper head space gauges can be rented for cheap. Don't let him buy 'em as you'll pay for 'em but won't get to keep 'em.
Spelling and Grammar count!
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Legacy Member
Since you are in Georgia contact Brian Dick here on the forum. He's in South Carolina and does work on the Enfields.
Contact BDL LTD
Former Prairie Submarine Commander
"To Err is Human, To Forgive is Divine. Neither of Which is SAC Policy."
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Legacy Member
Originally Posted by
Sunray
It's going to be a Bubba'd rifle anyway so what you use as a wood finish won't matter. I'd suggest Pure Tung Oil instead of RLO or
BLO. When properly rubbed in(one coat per day with 24 hours drying time between coats using a new lint free cloth every day.), it gives a hard, shiney(more of a sheen), waterproof finish that keeps everything else out.
Any stain
must go on before any oil, but especially Pure Tung Oil.
Make sure your smithy knows what he's doing when he installs the barrel. If he doesn't have the right tools, as in barrel vise and action wrench, it's easy to twist an Enfield receiver. And proper head space gauges can be rented for cheap. Don't let him buy 'em as you'll pay for 'em but won't get to keep 'em.
It will never be original, but I at least want it to pass the rack test.
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Legacy Member
Originally Posted by
AFJon
Since you are in Georgia contact
Brian Dick here on the forum. He's in South Carolina and does work on the Enfields.
Contact BDL LTD
Already called himm.He said he doesn't install the Criterion barrels, only originals.
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Contributing Member
Originally Posted by
A. Quatermain
It will never be original, but I at least want it to pass the rack test.
Alternatively, prepare the wood, colour with the stain of your choice (I use Liberon spirit based), then use raw linseed oil, applied for a week.
I keep the woodwork in a large plastic bag, keep applying every day, a week will do the trick ...
Wipe off the excess and watch the woodwork darken a bit more every day as it penetrates and oxidation gets underway.
Buff up the wood with a cloth and you get a lovely deep semi Matt finish that only gets better with age.
The choice is yours, many different ways..
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