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    Ross M10 I've had in my closet for 30+ yrs

    Hello
    I'm looking for help identifying the markings on my M10 that's been lying around for a long time. I fired it a couple of times about 25 yrs ago and with only the peep sites I remember beating my buddy who had a scope on his 308...
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    It might be helpful to photograph the right hand side of the buttstock in the area between the buttplate and wrist. Markings there are quite important!

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    Thread Starter

    Buttstock pics

    Hey thanks for the reply....I could not see any markings on the buttstock but to be sure here are the pics right and left

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    I'm afraid that most of the most useful markings were on the buttstock and so there's not much to tell any more.

    The Ross forum is kinda slow, though, so it's possible that you may get more detailed info after a lengthy spell. I'm NOT a Ross guru, I just have one, so I just know enough to get in trouble.

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    Sometimes it is possible to bring out markings with a black light such as one used by Stamp Collectors to look for watermarks on stamps.

    When wood is stamped, it compresses underneath. Sanding can obliterate the markings, but the compressed wood stamped underneath is denser than the surrounding wood.

    Canadianicon Unit markings were stamped on the right side of the butt stock, along with the Ross makers mark and the serial number.

    This rifle also has Commercial proof marks on it, so it was sporterized in Englandicon.

    Ross serial numbers used a combination of numbers from 1 to 999 plus a two letter combination over the date. For example 1234 BC over 1914. I am not sure how many letter combinations there were, but your rifle has 655 LR stamped on the bolt. This was not done at the Ross Factory, so it is possible that it was done when the rifle was sporterized, and the rifle serial number was used, without the date.

    One caution here. Does the rifle bolt carrier have a pin or rivet in the top of it. The Ross bolt can be assembled wrong, and if taken apart and assembled wrongly, it will not fully lock. When assembled correctly, there is about a ONE INCH space between the locking lugs and the bolt carrier. If there is only about 1/4 inch space when the bolt is in the rifle and slightly opened, then you have a problem. There is a Sticky in this forum on proper bolt assembly.

    HINT: If you shine a bright flashlight into the rear of the receiver as you close the bolt, you can see the bolt locking lugs engage fully. If the bolt is assembled wrong, only about 1/6 of the locking lug will engage, and if fired in that condition, the bolt can come back, hit you between the eyes, with a good chance of it being fatal. You have been warned!
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    Last edited by buffdog; 07-29-2011 at 10:59 AM.

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    Thread Starter

    Thanks Again and Any idea what it might be worth to someone?

    This rifle has been fired many times over the years and I am not aware that it was ever disassembled....however, I will be checking it out....including the markings....will let you know

    Also, I have no reason to sell this rifle anytime soon..It belonged to my dad so it has sentimental value, but also I don't have anyone close that might be interested in inheriting it. I would like to know (should I ever decide to part with it) how much it might be worth.

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    The BOLT as shown in the photograph is assembled correctly. Just don't mess with it until you have downloaded a Manual, which you can do on this forum.

    Yes, this is a rifle which was sportered in Englandicon, likely after WW2. I have its mate. So does Buffdog, IIRC.

    The ORIGINAL proofmark is the DCP-ith-crossed-flags: Dominion of Canadaicon Proof. The BM-and-crown markings are from the Birmingham Proof House in England, so we have a pretty good idea who the culprits are.

    Likely, this will be one of the rifles which remained in Royal Navy stores following WW1 and saw active service again in WW2. They were finally surplussed folowing that War.

    The butt, of course, has been sanded to remove the original markings, but I think it must have been Friday afternoon that this one was done: the sanding was not done as deeply as most. I think it VERY likely that this one would respond well to ultraviolet light. You can pick up a UV ("black light") 75W bulb at your local Dollar Store. Price? One buck, of course! Shield your eyes from the thing if you are close to it, though: massive doses of UV are NOT good for the eyesight.

    You have a very nice, and very practical rifle. It's a keeper.

    It was your Dad's?

    Keeper for sure, then.

    BTW, I note the very low post number: welcome aboard, friend!
    Last edited by smellie; 08-01-2011 at 08:36 AM.

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    Typical post-WWII UKicon sporterization. Lots of them around even now.
    Last edited by Surpmil; 12-04-2011 at 05:50 PM.
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