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  1. #11
    Senior Member daveboy's Avatar
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    Parashooter, try as I might I cannot see the difference no matter the pressure I put on the bolt. The ejector slides in the slot on the left boltlug in all cases, but when pressure is to the left it does not "snap" over it just sorta flops around.

    I wish I had another one to compare it to.

    Thanks for your insight.

    daveboy

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  3. #12
    Advisory Panel chuckindenver's Avatar
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    heres your fix.
    the cutoff spindle is held in place by a set screw at the end of the cutoff, if this is loose or missing it will let the spindle move foward, keeping the ejector from working.
    also, if the ejector spring{pin that looks like a screw} is missing, loose or puggerd, it will also keep the ejector from working.
    check the screw first, loosen it, pull the spindle back to the point were you can see a notch , thats for a ord, tool offered, to grab the spindle and pull it out, that should be exposed just a bit,
    then with the bolt removed, check for free play, set the ejector so it stick out, replace the screw in the cutoff, snug it down, and replace the bolt, run an emty case through the rifle.
    see if it ejects this time.

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  5. #13
    Advisory Panel Parashooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckindenver View Post

    also, if the ejector spring{pin that looks like a screw} is missing, loose or puggerd, it will also keep the ejector from working.
    In what way is the ejector pin a "spring"? Please explain.

  6. #14
    Advisory Panel chuckindenver's Avatar
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    the screw slot is actually a spring so that it wont fall out of the receiver or come loose.
    its not a screw. and not really a pin.
    maybe more of a pin with a spring head.

  7. #15
    Really Senior Member Cosine26's Avatar
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    The late model M1903/A3 ejectors were manufactured using a “shortcut” that sometimes causes them to malfunction. If you will examine a true pre-war M1903 ejector, you will see that the cam on the ejector that contacts the bolt lug is not a straight line but has a slight cam cut to the right (right of rifle side) which causes more positive ejection. During war time manufacture, this slight cam cut was eliminated and the side of the ejector that contacts the bolt is straight without the cam. This made production faster and cheaper though it did adversely affect ejector operation. If you push the rear of the bolt body to the right, most of the time the bolt lug will activate the ejector. If you push the rear of bolt body to the left, the ejector will “late time” and hit the side of the case, generally just forward of the of the extractor recess and the round will not eject. Hope this helps. I can make any ejector work with a simple modification but would hesitate to offer unsolicited advise and possible “ruin” of a badly modified ejector. I have done it many times.

  8. #16
    Really Senior Member Cosine26's Avatar
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    daveboy,
    I cannot figutre out how to reply to your e-mail so I shall take a chance and post my reply here. Hope that's OK.
    The fix is quite simple. If you look at the ejector when it is the full eject position, you will note that the ejector face is 90 degrees to the right from the bore. Since the original cam is not there it does not come to the 90 degree until too late. The solution is to grind the ejector face until is more than 90 degrees, probably from 91 to 95 degrees. Remember the old Chinese proverb, “Make Haste slowly.” Keeping the face straight grind the face to 91 degrees and then try it. If 91 is not enough, grind to 92 etc until the tip of the ejector comes in behind the base of the case. It is strictly “cut and try”. Continue this and reinstalling after each grind. With the bolt installed, lay the rifle on the left side and observer the action of the ejector when the bolt is brought to the rear with pressure on the rear of the bolt to the left. The tip of the ejector should “time” behind the bolt face prior to clearing the face. This will insure that the tip of the ejector “times” behind the case head.
    Remember that in rapid fire you always have a tendency to push the rear of the bolt to the left. This is the worst condition for the unmodified late ejector.
    I believe that this will work for I have used it many times.

  9. #17
    Senior Member daveboy's Avatar
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    Cosine26 I tried your fix and it didn't work. Made sense to me, but it just ain't gonna work. Am ordering a new ejector.

    daveboy

  10. #18
    Senior Member daveboy's Avatar
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    Update!

    Got an ejector from Springfield Sporters today. Compared it to my original and it was larger in every external dimension. Either mine was worn out, produced sloppily, or whatever, but the difference in dimensions was striking.



    I installed it and my A3 will now kick brass all the way across my shop no matter how pressure is applied to the bolt. This is how I knew it should work.

    Thanks for all your help.

    By the way, this is my first time using Springfield Sporters but it will not be the last--good prices, nice looking parts, quick shipping. Looks like a good company!

    daveboy

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