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  1. #1
    Legacy Member tower06's Avatar
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    Enfield Sniper

    I noticed on forums that some individuals refurb Enfields. I just picked up a No.4 Mk.1T sniper that is in fairly decent shape but of course needs some work. The bolt is nice and tight, and the barrel is sharp but the stock and other parts could used some love. I have repro pads for it, and of course will need a mount and scope, but I wanted everyones thoughts on how to proceed. Should I refurb it or just clean up the stock and keep as is.
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    If you're in the U.S., you might want to start with Brian Dickicon at BDLicon (see ad in top left corner of forum) before you start sawing and nailing (just kidding) ...

    Pics would be helpful for us to see what you're starting with ...

    Regards,
    Badger

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    Legacy Member tower06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Badger View Post
    If you're in the U.S., you might want to start with Brian Dickicon at BDLicon (see ad in top left corner of forum) before you start sawing and nailing (just kidding) ...

    Pics would be helpful for us to see what you're starting with ...

    Regards,
    Badger
    Pics will be on the way soon.

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    Might I be so bold as to suggest Tower06 that there are only a few non committal answers to your main question because making up even a half decent No4T isn't just a case of getting yourself a No4T, the pads, a bracket and a scope, then screwing the lot together. If you are hell bent on doing it, might i be so bold as to suggest that you get yourself the whole set of bits and when you've done it, maybe I could explain the technical and optical problems that you WILL face.

    None are insurmountable but the unwary can soon fall into a trap that turns into a chasm. And one that you can get into, past the point of no return VERY quickly and end up with a pile of tat.

    But you can do it and end up with a perfectly useable, reliable and good repro No4T, albeit a fake.

    You get the bits and we'll all walk slowly through it

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    None are insurmountable but the unwary can soon fall into a trap that turns into a chasm. And one that you can get into, past the point of no return VERY quickly and end up with a pile of tat.
    Last year I collected Repro pads and mount and have a suitable donor rifle that already has been drilled and tapped for a aftermarket scope mount. I have plugged the old holes and I'm ready to drill and tap for the repro pads. Next hurtle is BA taps and mounting screws.

    I'll be watching for more info on this..

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    Legacy Member tower06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    Might I be so bold as to suggest Tower06 that there are only a few non committal answers to your main question because making up even a half decent No4T isn't just a case of getting yourself a No4T, the pads, a bracket and a scope, then screwing the lot together. If you are hell bent on doing it, might i be so bold as to suggest that you get yourself the whole set of bits and when you've done it, maybe I could explain the technical and optical problems that you WILL face.

    None are insurmountable but the unwary can soon fall into a trap that turns into a chasm. And one that you can get into, past the point of no return VERY quickly and end up with a pile of tat.

    But you can do it and end up with a perfectly useable, reliable and good repro No4T, albeit a fake.

    You get the bits and we'll all walk slowly through it
    I think that maybe I was misunderstood in my original post. The rifle I picked up is a original sniper #AT4242. My question is about refurbing it or leaving it as it is. It came w/o the pads mount or scope. I do have repro pads for it however and am going to try to find the mount and scope for it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tower06 View Post
    I think that maybe I was misunderstood in my original post. The rifle I picked up is a original sniper #AT4242. My question is about refurbing it or leaving it as it is. It came w/o the pads mount or scope. I do have repro pads for it however and am going to try to find the mount and scope for it.
    I think that what Peter was getting at is that the mounting of the pads and bracket and getting the whole lot central / aquare is the hard bit. Heres is part of a an old post of Peters :

    ..................Then the process of attaching the unfinished front pad to the rifle commenced. After this was firmly attached/soft soldered/screwed, a shell mill cutter would mill the front mounting spigot and bracket mating surface to an EXACT depth so that the round bracket mating surface – that’s the circular surface to the right and surrounding the actual spigot - is now at an exact distance from an imaginary line along the centre of the bore. The tool checkers checked the accuracy of these operations every evening during a short floating break period
    You can now see that while the pad on your rifle is fixed to the body, it is actually aligned with great accuracy to the exact centre line of the bore ….., regardless of its relation to the body. This is the reason why that you can, if you are silly, desperate or just unwise, transfer a front pad to another rifle ….., and the centres of the screws align and fit, it won’t necessarily be either square on or axially correct for the rifle. The same goes for the bracket…………….
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

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    Watch eBay, original sets of pads do turn up from time to time. Bubbas the world over think alike it seems.
    Last edited by Surpmil; 01-21-2010 at 11:24 PM. Reason: Clarity

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    Forgive them Peter, they still don't get it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan de Enfield View Post
    I think that what Peter was getting at is that the mounting of the pads and bracket and getting the whole lot central / aquare is the hard bit. Heres is part of a an old post of Peters :

    ..................Then the process of attaching the unfinished front pad to the rifle commenced. After this was firmly attached/soft soldered/screwed, a shell mill cutter would mill the front mounting spigot and bracket mating surface to an EXACT depth so that the round bracket mating surface – that’s the circular surface to the right and surrounding the actual spigot - is now at an exact distance from an imaginary line along the centre of the bore. The tool checkers checked the accuracy of these operations every evening during a short floating break period
    You can now see that while the pad on your rifle is fixed to the body, it is actually aligned with great accuracy to the exact centre line of the bore ….., regardless of its relation to the body. This is the reason why that you can, if you are silly, desperate or just unwise, transfer a front pad to another rifle ….., and the centres of the screws align and fit, it won’t necessarily be either square on or axially correct for the rifle. The same goes for the bracket…………….
    My apologies for the mistake. It sounded like it was thought I was making a replica sniper. I'm actually trying to restore/refurb (whatever term you like) to close to original condition as possible.

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