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Thread: Can a worn Gas Cyl cause failure to feed?

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    Can a worn Gas Cyl cause failure to feed?

    Hi, I'm new here, thanks to this great site for the info I've already learned. I have a Winchester Garandicon (mix master) that is experiencing Failure to Feed on almost every round. I'm using some vintage M2 Ball ammo. I checked the op rod piston (it's .525"O.D.). I checked the gas cylinder and it's oblonged at the rear (.527" I.D. side to side, .550" I.D. top to bottom).
    I can see a wear pattern on the floor of the cylinder that goes in about 1" from the rear. Is this what's causing my FTF? (the pressure escaping before the bolt is pushed back far enough to let the next round move up into position). Is there something else that I should be checking? What would cause this wear pattern? The op rod piston is clean, no marks.
    Thanks.
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    Absolutely.The gas cylinder is among the first areas I check If I don't get it to feed.There are a lot of things that can cause it to fail,but This is a Firearm that relies on Gas blowing back on the piston to cycle it and if it is blowing by it can be bad enough to not cycle it back to pick up another round.

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    Thanks,
    So I'm not wasting time & money finding a good gas cylinder towards curing the FTF?
    I wonder what made the wear pattern. Is that normal?

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    Agree with the others. I left the screw lose once and withing two clips it started having FTF issues. If the gas escapes (worn cylinder or lose screw) it will have problems.
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    The back side is supposed to be somewhat oblong. You are supposed to measure the end with the gas port. A .530 Pin Gauge should not enter the power storke area more than halfway. The less it enters the less wear it has

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    Have You also preformed a tilt test with Your Rifle with the op rod spring removed?Have You checked the cylinder lock screw for tightness or cracks?Just a few things more You can check before You buy a new gas cylinder,and Yes,these were all culprits with My Rifles as well.

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    Thanks for responding. I did the tilt test with the spring removed - it slid smoothly on its own weight. I checked the cyl lock and screw for cracks, debris and tightness - all good. Unfortunately I dont have a gauge to test with, I'm using an inside mic and digital calipers.

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    Check the barrel gas port for carbon buildup. Insert a .080 inch drill bit into the port. If it doesn't go in, the port is blocked. Twist the drill bit with your fingers and the carbon will come out. Don't use any power tools for this.

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