Gunsmithing questions

[jessebogan]

Hello Folks,
I have a couple of questions regarding the restoration of my 1916 BSA MKIII* First, I have picked up a (supposedly) NOS bolt body. Under the handle is 1956, and M47C . I have 3 bolt heads here, and none of them will rotate quite far enough. (5 to 10 degrees depending on the head) So, do I stone the body to allow the heads to turn far enough, or do I keep searching for one that will fit. If I do fit the heads to the bolt body, how do I keep it perfectly square? I have read Peter Laidlers article on using engineers blue to check the fit in the body, but if I can't get a bolt head to fit, no point in fitting it to the action.

Second, I purchased a new fore end. It is enfield marked, and new. I have to do a wee bit of trimming around the action body, but that is easy. My question is, how much force should be needed to fit it onto the rifle. I can't push it with my bare hands, and my de mummyed No4 MK2 requires a wooden mallet, should the No3 be similar, or do I have more fitting to do?

Thanks for putting up with stupid questions, I have never had "new" parts to work with before.

Thanks,
Jesse

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Roy]

We'll start with a stupid answer then. I'll be learning something too. M47C is BSA Shirley no 4 production code. was it put on any MkIII* bolts? Can you even put a no 4 bolt in a a Mk III? ive never tried.

[Kiwi]

Have run in to the exact same issues with my restoration work except mines a M47C No.1 MkIII* forewood dated 1956 and a NOS Lithgow starmarked bolt. Looking forward to reading some answers (have also read and re-read Peter Laidlers article on bolt fitting, but obviously I'm missing something).

[Roger Payne]

Guys, the easiest way to tell if you have a No1 or No4 bolt body is to look at the long rib that runs along it & if this is solid it is for a No1 (SMLE) & if it has been milled out to lighten it then it is for a No4. Other features such as hollowed out bolt handle etc are variable, but to the best of my knowledge the ribs were always machined the same. If you're restoring SMLE's you need bolt bodies with a solid rib.

ATB

[Brian Dick]

Pick up a copy of COC Training Centre A. 21 Lecture Precis No. 37 "Extracts From Instructions for Armourers". It details how to properly fit SMLE forearms and bolt heads. $20 plus shipping from bdlltd@bellsouth.net.

[newcastle]

Sounds like you have a No.4 bolt body. Try springfield sporters for a No.1 bolt body - SSsporters.com i think.

[jessebogan]

Nope, it is a #3 bolt body. A. it fits the rifle just fine. B. Solid rib. The "root end" of the handle is slightly different, not machined as smooth as an old bolt on the top, but functions the same. I guess that BSA must have had a spares contract, maybe for Greece? I am hoping to make this work to replace a force matched bolt. If not, it is not the end of the world.

---------- Post added at 01:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:14 PM ----------

I just checked. A number 4 bolt head will not thread in this body at all. The number 3 heads all thread in OK, they just won't rotate quite enough.

[Alan de Enfield]

Nope, it is a #3 bolt body. .[COLOR="black"]

.

Are you sure its a No3 bolt and not a No1 Mk3
A number 3 is a totally different beast

[jessebogan]

Sorry for the nomenclature error. It is a bolt for a No1 MK3 rifle, built as a No3*, in 1916. The bolt body is correct, and matches well with the 2 others on the bench.I will order the reference listed above, and see what I need to know. I am used to switchee changee on used stuff to get things in spec, but New parts are a "luxury" for me. I restore old Jaguars for a living and have access to tools and a good relationship w/ a couple of machinists....I really like the old Enfields, and want to do a job on this rifle that an armourer would bless. So, I suppose I am just looking for "best practices", as I never want to be known as "Bubba"...

Thanks,
Jesse

[Peter Laidler]

Here's an Armourer speaking here. Before I answer YOUR question, I need an answer to this question. Do you have the CORRECT cartridge head space gauges handy? If not, don't even bother proceeding any further.