Pics of my Teaked No I Mk III

[CINDERS]

Just some pics of my Mk III in its teak livery I still have its original stock there are just 2 things one is the poor attempt at the sniper cheek piece by the previous owner.
Also the p*ss poor barrel change I got this at an auction 10 years ago for $250.oo AU it owes me nothing and shoots really well the X 1940 under the bolt handle is intriguing is that like a production No. for the action!

Information

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[Son]

The x1940 on the receiver there is the assembly number from when the bolt body was lapped to the receiver lugs. This was done at the start of assembly, long before the rifle was given a serial number, to keep the matched bolt and receiver together. If the bolt is original it will have the same number on the bottom of the handle. (1940 is purely coincidental, it could have been anything.)

Looks very nice indeed.

[WarPig1976]

That teak is gorgeous.!!

[Patrick Chadwick]

Yes it does look gorgeous. And I apologize for what will seem to be "knocking". But there is a prominent knot on the left side, between the backsight and the breech. If the wood was not properly matured (and even if well matured, the effect will still be present to a lesser degree) this will cause the stock to warp away from the knot, which will tend to become loose. It may not be visible or even detectable for some considerable time, but it would advisable to check the fore-end fitting occasionally.

I once had (meaning: I can't find it at the moment!) a stock from a Chinese Mauser that had several knots along its length. It looked like a folding rule that had not been folded out quite straight, with the knots being the "joints".

[CINDERS]

Hi Pat yep I keep an eye on that knot this one is a safe queen I had it out the other day and put 35 rounds through it the first time in 4 years it has been shot it gets regular light pampering just a bit of oil, bees wax I do the bore @ twice a year and have silica gel in the safes.
I have 2 No 4 Savages that are the work horses I will one day dig out my unfired '21 Lithgow and get pics of that I know it may seem a long story but it still has grease the original '21 barrel no FTR, no marks on the bolt face and only minimal on the floor plate due to bolt cycling.
It also came with a serial numbered to the rifle '21 Lithgow 07 bayonet unissued condition with a dble stitched scabbard also a Lithgow '21 I got it @ 7 years ago for $650AU the lot.......

[Peter Laidler]

I seem to recall that there was simply no demand for teak - anywhere! Thousands of tons were offered by India for the war effort but it wasn't even suitable for pit props. Anyone in the wood working trade know/understand why?

[Homer]

That's one of the better teak stocks I've seen. Those that were being sold in Australia at gun shows some years back looked like crap to me.

Very much looking forward to seeing your unfired 1921 lithgow with matching bayonet.

[CINDERS]

Hi Peter,
Perhaps it would be a good thing if you gave reasons why those in the working trade would understand why Teak was not a good option as there are a multitude of personnel out there who use milsurps as a knowledge centre from those that have been "in the trade" or a trained armourer like yourself. I get a bit perplexed bloke at some of the things you say to people who like myself do not have the greatest training in the finer arts of weapony but we do understand which end the pointy piece comes out of all I ask is that all of you with the knowledge pass it on with fair comment to those of us that at times use a trial and error method.

I have not forgotten a snipe at me using a BALSA wood packer sliver to try and stop my front top wood from sliding forward onto the foresight protector on my No.4 and the piece I was trying to find on it is on page 119 of Roger Wadhams book The 2012 Complete Book on Lee Enfield Accurizing which whilst not the doyen or bible on them does give some indications on an average persons ability to get the best they can out of their favourite toy.
I saw a pic of the mod in Wadhams book that you suggested putting a flat edged dint/dent whatever you want to call it on the 4's front band and to me as a person who trys to really look after my ol'girls it looked like a 2 year old had gotten loose with a piece of flat bar me for one will not use that technique that you also expounded on in another reply to a shooter who had a similar issues I actually noted it had moved forward on his pic as he had not, the mod looked sh*t period.......
There are multitudes of us out there that really enjoy shooting the 303's and discussing our trials and sometimes great days at the range and whilst at times it may grate on your nerves or knowledge bank just remember the maxim;
"There are no dumb questions, only dumb answers." Recruits learn from their peers who impart the gained knowledge of years of training, they would look after them as the knowledge they impart will keep them alive if they fail in their task as the leader then the results of their knowledge transfer will be directly proportional to the KIA No.'s on the casualty lists.

Now isnt this a grand way to start a Sunday morning, I may go down to the range as its a big w/end service shoot and the guys from the Regiment from our capital city come down to have a bit of fun with the civilians at least they are on equal terms using the same type of weapons.
Their bases location is not a classified piece of info as you would have to be a right **** to attempt to get on a base that is full of Australian SAS soldiers

To all of you neophytes out there in milsurp land keep the faith with whatever takes your fancy 303's, Carcanos, K-98's, K31's, Arisakas, Mosins whatever just have fun as it is quite unique to let her off and ask "now I wonder where that shot went ????"

[Bruce_in_Oz]

I would advise caution regarding Silica gel in gun safes.

If the air inside the safe is REALLY dry, it will pull moisture from the wooden bits on the goodies stored there.

Most "seasoned" wood used for cabinet-making and gun stocks has about 10 to 12.5% "moisture". Much more than that and and it tends to cause problems at the extreme cold end of the temperature range. Much less and the timber can start to split and it will distort quite badly if it gets a chance to absorb any moisture after processing.

Teak is as tough as old boots and it also has a higher content of "oils" than a lot of other timbers; hence its extensive use on boats. A friend of mine used to make "nautical drink holders" that featured teak and brass construction in a clever gimbal design; The old dive boat could be pitching and rolling to an alarming degree but nary a drop was spilt in the wheelhouse.

One downside to teak is its density; somewhat greater than walnut or beech. A teak stock made from a properly cured, quarter-sawn blank should be fairly stable, if a little heavy.

Can any Arisaka buffs out there confirm the story I have heard that Japan used Teak for some replacement stocks? It is certainly "tropic" resistant stuff, especially if, as I understand happened, the stock was heavily treated with Potassium Permanganate (Condy's Crystals) which gave the wood an interesting "reddish" hue and kept the bugs at bay.

[CINDERS]

Hi Bruce I changed out the silica for Disks Daubrite 10 from Brownells, the size of the silica pkts was about 50-80 grams 1 pkt per safe thanks for the reply appreciated, yes it is a fair bit heavier but it soaks up the recoil well better than filling the butt trap with lead shot as the oldies did !!