Restoration Project An Israeli, Model 1930 Type .22

[Albayo]

I have been gathering parts for an Israeli, Model 1930 Type .22 for the past few months, its nearing completion.
Thanks to some members who have provided guidance. I have gathered all of the available original parts I need to restore it, to add it to my collection of training rifles.

I started with a Mauser .22 with this stock, and holes drilled in the base of the rear sight and the right side of the receiver. The receiver can be fixed without many problems.








I bought an original Israeli .22 stock and available hardware from Gun Parts. This is where I am on the project.
I am looking for a gunsmith or guidance to remove the damaged rear site base, and install the new one. I also need a retaining ring for the hand guard, or someone to manufacture one. One other thing I need are shims for the bolt or information about manufacturing them.



My original Israeli .22 Training rifle is behind for comparison.










There is another Israeli .22 trainer by FN that has been turned into a target rifle, I am looking for information on this example.
It is one of the above rifles with a heavy barrel and target sights.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Mansura]

The .22 trainer world is an obscure but very interesting facet of .22 shooting, lots to learn. They are rare but last week an Enfield .22 appeared at my small town LGS, it might have been there 24 hours before I snapped it up. Last night I bought an Israeli .22 Mauser off GB, it is scarred, the stories it could tell of training young Israelis to defend their country. I will leave it as is, it is an honest veteran, fortunately no one tried to make it something it wasn't. Hats off to Albayo for bringing his trainer to a more original condition.

[Patrick Chadwick]

I am looking for a gunsmith or guidance to remove the damaged rear site base, and install the new one.

In the spirit of creative laziness, please go here, to save me repeating what I have already written.

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread....956#post286956

To which I should add:
Remove the barrelled system from the stock. Remove the sight leaf. How?
- You drive out the pin at the front of the sight leaf from left to right. The sight leaf does not pop out. You wonder why?
- The leaf is also hooked into the sight base. Awkward to describe, but quite clear when you have finally managed to extract the leaf. Push down very firmly on the very front of the leaf and simultaneously push it back towards the breech at the same time. A bit of brass rod is useful as a "pusher", to save the bluing on the leaf. The lugs on the leaf will then slide out from under the sides of the sight base, and the leaf will pop out. **

(A couple of points I overlooked in the other thread)
Make sure that the receiver/action body is firmly clamped in a bench vice with padded jaws for the soldering (in this case, unsoldering) operation. To prevent the barrelled system from rotating downwards (and possibly scrubbing the receiver) when you manipulate the backsight, provide at least a hardwood support block under the muzzle end (a padded clamp would be better) before unsoldering the backsight sleeve. Do NOT rely on yourself or anyone else holding any part of the metal. When it gets too hot the holder will lose manual control, with possibly unpleasant results. Take time to fix the patient properly before commencing the operation! When the solder melts, you will be able to use a brass drift to (lightly!) drive the sleeve forwards along the barrel until it is quite loose.

You are dealing with a large mass of metal, which will take a considerable time to cool down. After the (un)soldering operation, take a short walk or make a cup of tea before trying to touch the metal!

**IMMEDIATELY put the pin back into the sight leaf, in the correct orientation, and wrap some electrician's tape over the assembly to keep it there. If you do not, Murphy's law will ensure that the pin rolls off the bench and hides so successfully that you waste an afternoon looking for it. How do I know this? Can't you guess?