Going to field strip my M1 Garand for the first time. Advice? Tips? Supplies?

[AaronGee]

Just an update: Did my cleaning/op rod replacement Friday (04/13). Tearing it down was quite easy, I had a little trouble figuring out how to separate the follower rod from the spring but it was just pulling it apart. You seem to be right about the operating rod, it was slightly less than 19" and the coils were quite compressed towards the follower rod. I'll attach some photo's of the cleaning, you can see the difference between the old/new.

Also there is a photo of a 'FULTON ARMORY - ARMORY M1 GARAND GAS CYLINDER WRENCH' (blue thing). I though that was for unscrewing the gas port screw at the end when I purchased it. When it arrived it was quite large and I realized it fits around the end of the gun. I don't really know what it is for, do you? I used a regular Flathead to screw/unscrew the gas cylinder lock screw. I'll probably end up stripping it if I keep doing that, so I'll look for the proper tool at a gun show or purchase one online before my text tear down.

Assembly went fairly easy. Getting the op rod spring in and reattached was a but difficult but I did it. Hopefully I used enough lubricant.

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[no4mk1t]

Just an update: Did my cleaning/op rod replacement Friday (04/13). Tearing it down was quite easy, I had a little trouble figuring out how to separate the follower rod from the spring but it was just pulling it apart. You seem to be right about the operating rod, it was slightly less than 19" and the coils were quite compressed towards the follower rod. I'll attach some photo's of the cleaning, you can see the difference between the old/new.

Also there is a photo of a 'FULTON ARMORY - ARMORY M1 GARAND GAS CYLINDER WRENCH' (blue thing). I though that was for unscrewing the gas port screw at the end when I purchased it. When it arrived it was quite large and I realized it fits around the end of the gun. I don't really know what it is for, do you? I used a regular Flathead to screw/unscrew the gas cylinder lock screw. I'll probably end up stripping it if I keep doing that, so I'll look for the proper tool at a gun show or purchase one online before my text tear down.

Assembly went fairly easy. Getting the op rod spring in and reattached was a but difficult but I did it. Hopefully I used enough lubricant.

There was no pic of you installing the spring. Did you grease the spring when you installed it? If not, take it out and use a small brush to apply grease as you feed it into the op rod. The proper amount is enough to coat the coils without bridging the coils.

The gas cylinder wrench is to properly hold and support the gas cylinder when removing or tightening the gas cylinder plug. It prevents you from putting excessive torsional stress on the rifle if you try to hold it by other means.
At your next gun show, buy a USGI M10 combo tool. In addition to properly fitting the gas plug, it also allows you to disassemble the bolt easily whether it is installed in the rifle or not.

[AaronGee]

As for the final result:

Seems to have worked, but I'll have to take it to the range to be sure. I have a full clip of snap caps for testing. The first clip was a little difficult to get in. I got it in and cycled the action until the clip ejected. I did this three times and only had the problem of it not closing all the way once. Next week (likely Tuesday) is range day so I'll have to see how it works with live rounds.

I attached more photo's. On one of them I guess I did not get the clip down far enough, it would not close.

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[no4mk1t]

As for the final result:

Seems to have worked, but I'll have to take it to the range to be sure. I have a full clip of snap caps for testing. The first clip was a little difficult to get in. I got it in and cycled the action until the clip ejected. I did this three times and only had the problem of it not closing all the way once. Next week (likely Tuesday) is range day so I'll have to see how it works with live rounds.

I attached more photo's. On one of them I guess I did not get the clip down far enough, it would not close.

Make sure all the cartridges are fully seated in the clip. Do this by loading 7 rounds, and checking to ensure all are fully seated before inserting #8. A round that is not fully seated will catch on the receiver and prevent insertion of the clip.
Top round should be on the right. All arsenal ammo is loaded that way. Lefties will load top round on the left to make pressing the clip in easier left handed.

The M1 is designed to allow a full clip to be inserted and latch in place without the op rod closing on your thumb. A slight bump on the op rod handle will close the bolt. Watch some old USGI training vids on youtube to see what I mean.

[AaronGee]

So I went to the range today.

The original problem is fixed. But there is a new one now.

For the first three clips it went fine for the most part, with minor issues. The first clip did not eject, one round did not feed properly and another did not eject properly. From my understanding these are common occurrences and I don't have to worry.

During the 4th clip however.... the clip started to eject after four rounds (getting stuck when the bolt would close on it). I topped it up and put it back in. However, it would keep ejecting after two and sometimes four rounds.

[rcathey]

Relatively common problem.
It could be the clip latch spring. Before purchasing a replacement, you could take out your current spring and give it a stretch. If upon reinstalling the problem is solved, go out and buy a new one because this is definitely not a permanent fix.
There are other possible causes but this is by far the cheapest to eliminate. It's where I'd start.

[browningautorifle]

it would keep ejecting after two and sometimes four rounds.

I wouldn't mess with anything on the rifle. Stop using that clip for a few weeks and keep shooting. If the problem persists with other clips then start the puzzle of parts. If not then sell the clip to someone else...it may work find in his rifle. Many clips are as new and made in China, original markings and all. The can be the problem. Sort and mark them for disposal.

[Sunray]

"...my first full cleaning..." That should have been before you fired the thing. Anyway, an M1 isn't difficult to field strip.
Go here for a free .pdf manual. Read it. Note the need for the provided UN & PW. You want FM-23-5 and TM-9-1275. Don't worry about Ordnance being spelt wrong by Fulton.
Biggerhammer.net - Miscellaneous Firearms Technical and Training Manuals
"...removing the gas plug for cleaning..." Removing the gas plug is part of a full cleaning. Any screwdriver will do for off and back on. Screwdriver tight is enough.
"...Garands are hard to come by up here..." Garands in decent condition are hard to come by up here. They are Stateside too. S'why they worth the money asked. Only if the thing is in decent condition though. I've seen junkers at gun shows the guy thought were worth $775 when they were worth that Stateside in good condition. U.S. values mean nothing here. The guy hauled 'em back and forth for months. Same guy wanted $4 each for a $1.50 clip. That were in poor condition too.
When you get that far, think 150 or 168 grain bullets with IMR4064.

[RCS]

I can remember when there was at least one or two men in most every squad that could disassemble the M1, and put it all back together blindfolded !

Forget about those "GI cleaning party" where one guy cleaned all the op rods and another cleaned another part - my observations - everybody cleaned
his own rifle and never wanted to mix around parts from other rifles.

[browningautorifle]

everybody cleaned
his own rifle and never wanted to mix around parts from other rifles.

I did it for 35 years and never did see guys mix up rifle parts. The weapon was your own responsibility...be it the LAR or MG, rocket launcher or mortar...rifle...pistol...