Clip pouch for M1 Carbine

[szvacek]

Want to really thank all you guys for helping me out. I'm new to this collecting and since this gun is so important to me, I don't want to screw it up. I would like to remove the stock and clean it up. There's lots of grim and dirt on it. I have attached pictures of the what I call the retaining ring on the front, which I'm sure is not the correct term.

What size is that nut? I don't have an wrenches that fit it. Also, there are several Youtube video on removing the stock but most of them have the bayonet clip, which mine does not.

thanks
Steve

[szvacek]

You don't live that far away. Since I'm retired, I travel quite a bit. Never know when I might be in the area.

Steve Z.

[W5USMC]

What size is that nut? I don't have an wrenches that fit it.

Steve,
That bolt and nut on your barrel band are not correct, it should have a screw that threads directly into the bottom half of the barrel band. Open this link and page about halfway down to see what your band screw should look like.

The U.S. Caliber .30 Carbines - Barrel Manufacturers

[deldriver]

Want to really thank all you guys for helping me out. I'm new to this collecting and since this gun is so important to me, I don't want to screw it up. I would like to remove the stock and clean it up. There's lots of grim and dirt on it. I have attached pictures of the what I call the retaining ring on the front, which I'm sure is not the correct term.

What size is that nut? I don't have an wrenches that fit it. Also, there are several Youtube video on removing the stock but most of them have the bayonet clip, which mine does not.

thanks
Steve

Steve, that nut at the bottom of the swivel screw has been added on at some point. My guess, and I hope not, is that the hole at the bottom of the band is stripped and won't hold when the screw is turned. I have seen a few such stripped holes, but it's more the exception rather than the rule.

[JimF4M1s (Deceased)]

$40 IQ oiler

[USGI]

more pictures
Here are pics from the bottom of the oiler and the RH side of the sight.

Steve, those are great pictures! The value of that IQ oiler is at least what JimF has posted. According to my Riesch book, the IR (International Register) Type 3 adjustable sight was only used on the later QHM Carbines. The screw on the Type 1 band isn't the same as for the Type 2 and Type 3 (bayonet lug) bands. If the threads are OK in the lower part of your band, some of the reproduction (Fake) Type 1 bands have a screw that will fit. Not all of them are made with the correct screw head, so make sure to check that before you buy a repro band just for the new screw. Your threads may be OK, and the bolt with nut was used to lock the bolt at a certain position, and from coming loose. Often when the wood at the front of the stock is compressed, the screw has to be left a bit loose to keep the band from locking down too much on the swivel, and preventing it's movement You could accomplish the same thing (if your band isn't stripped) by installing a new screw with a drop of blue loctite to hold the screw from coming loose. Have you checked for stake marks on the receiver dovetail where the rear sight is mounted? - Bob

[painter777]

Steve,
What your calling a Retaining Ring......

Is what we call a Type I or Type IA barrel band. As you can see it's marked UI on the right side... with the I lightly struck (Very Common) on these REAL Bands. The Swivel has the QU marking on it. These swivels came in 2 inner dimensions, the earliest was what we call a Type I Narrow swivel, the later swivel was made a bit wider to ease up binding on the sling... these we call a Type IA. I'd guess and say your Swivel is the Wider Type IA. Good news is it is REAL. These are often Faked, with many Reproductions out there passed off as being real USGI issue.
In good working order these can sell for over $150+.

As stated above the nut and bolt have been added by someone.
The Real screw you need is formed on the top so a GI in the field could use the rim of a .30 Cal case to un-screw it.
I also hope the current nut/bolt hasn't stripped the threads on the band.
Don't use the screw from a bayonet band as most all of them have the end threads peened over so they wouldn't thread completely back out.
With not knowing if the threads are stripped on the band..... If mine, I believe I'd just buy a New/Reproduction screw for now to see if it works.
Here's a link to New one:
EDIT TO REMOVE WRONG LINK

Here is a Manual you can Bookmark and save, it will come in handy:
http://www.90thidpg.us/Reference/Man...-1276_1947.pdf

I look forward to seeing your stock cleaned.
To me, under the grime appears to be some nice looking Tiger Strip Grain.

BTW That sling can run near $100, plus you have the case and cleaning kit/pouch.

Cheers,

[USGI]

Charlie, that screw at Numrich doesn't match up with an original. The head of the screw isn't right, wrong OAL, and too much of the shank is threaded. He would be better off with a screw from one of the repro bands that comes in a white box with the printing that looks "somewhat real" on the outside. Those have a screw that's nearly identical to the GI original. I have a screw here from a Union Hardware Type 1A band - it measures .865" OAL. - Bob

[painter777]

First,
I know I pointed him toward a Repo........ to save $$ in case band threads are bad.
But I did attach the wrong link.... to short.
Had this length in mind but now see they are out of stock:
Barrel Band Screw, Early Style, OAL .860 (For Early Style Swivel) | Gun

[painter777]

How Bout .....

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/773319504

Look long enough ?
$4.00 plus ship.