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  1. #1
    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Penny For Your Thoughts:

    Also posted this on the Winchester Collectors Forum but since this is my home I thought that I'd ask y'all your thoughts as well. The recoil pad on the 1948 Model 70 Pre-64 that I picked you is pretty much done. The writing on the pad indicates that it is a Whiteline Delux and from what I can tell I don't think the rifles came from the factory with these, did they?

    I found that Brownells carries a PACHMAYR DELUXE WHITE LINE RECOIL PAD but they also carries a copy of the Winchester Vented and Solid recoil pad. (as does pre64win.com) I'm not sure if I should just replace the recoil pad with a white line or a reproduction of the Winchester and if I do which is the right one to put.

    Thank for your thoughts in advance, Bill


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    Member wjw's Avatar
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    Don't know what cartridge your Model 70 is chambered for but it is highly unlikely that it left the factory with a pad of any sort - most likely a checkered steel butt-plate. Neither pad would be correct. An original steel butt-plate will most likely not fit as the butt was at the least flattened to install the pad and most likely was also cut. If you like the white line, install another Pachmayer White Line Deluxe, and if you prefer no white line, would use a Pachmayer Decelerator.

    Bill

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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjw View Post
    Don't know what cartridge your Model 70 is chambered for but it is highly unlikely that it left the factory with a pad of any sort - most likely a checkered steel butt-plate.
    Hi Bill, its 30.06 I was looking at the steel plates but did notice that there was a radius to them on the top, so figured the stock was trimmed for the recoil pad. The steel buttplate is where I was going to take it first until I noticed that. Thanks for the help and suggestions
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    Contributing Member rcathey's Avatar
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    I’d go with a solid red rubber pad. It’s a very classic look.
    To my eye, those ventilated pads are hideous.

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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcathey View Post
    I’d go with a solid red rubber pad. It’s a very classic look.
    I'm thinking the same thing.
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    Contributing Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    Pads aren't plug and play. You're going to have to fit the pad. Every pad is custom fit to it's butt. It involves a sander of one sort or the other then buffing wheels. To get a perfect fit there's a jig available from Brownell's, otherwise it can be done by eye but you gotta be good.

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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarPig1976 View Post
    Pads aren't plug and play. You're going to have to fit the pad. Every pad is custom fit to it's butt.
    Yup, I've fit quite a few not just pads but even steel buttplates when I've shortened for youth length of pull. I fit using a belt sander to ruff it down then files and hand sand to final fit. The trick is to use two or three layers of Scotch heavy-duty packing tape, or better what I have been using the last year is ScotchBlue platinum exterior painter’s tape. Its a plastic tape that sticks great, has high abrasion resistance, and comes off clean (unlike packaging tape). You put two or three layers around the butt of the rifle, trim it square with the back of the stock and mount the pad. when you hit the first layer of tape when ruffing the pad down to fit you know you are ready to go at it by hand. I've seen those tools on Borwnells but you still need final to fit by hand so other then helping with the angles I don't know if they are worth the trouble, but then I've never used one so don't know how good it works.
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    Contributing Member rcathey's Avatar
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    Here’s a video for using one of the jigs. Looks pretty easy if you have access to a disc sander.
    Last edited by rcathey; 08-19-2019 at 07:42 AM.

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    I've used a disc sander for years and those jigs take longer to set up than they're worth. You can mark it out before so you have the outside edge and then after sanding the sides and edge while it's flat you do the toe by hand the other way up. Yes, files help at the end.
    Regards, Jim

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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    I've used a disc sander for years and those jigs take longer to set up than they're worth.
    That's what I suspected, the setup time. I've never needed it. I use my Delta combo belt/disk sander. I just always say belt sander, don't know why :/ I used to mount them on the stock then scribe around the pad, remove it, ruff it in then put it back on and finish it. Now I just do everyting with it mounted on the stock.

    ---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:48 PM ----------

    Interesting, its $48.00 which is not god awful expensive but just another tool I'd have to store.
    Veteran US Navy Seabees - US Army Corps of Engineers - American Legion Post 0867
    " Only two defining forces have offered to die for me. 1.) Jesus Christ 2.) The American G.I. "One died for your soul, the other for your freedom! "

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