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Thread: No4 butt srew seized! Tool help...

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Scout Sniper's Avatar
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    No4 butt srew seized! Tool help...

    Hello Milsurps,

    I have a No4 and the butt screw is seized.

    The butt is slightly loose and when you move the butt if you put your finger on the end of the screw it moves.

    The problem is the screw head is rusted and welded to the stock. I have tried a large screwdriver and spanner on it with 2 people. Not even budged a fraction.

    I have dumped penetrating fluid in there and left for a few days and it doesnt even really penetrate in its sealed that tight.

    I need the correct bracing tool, only i cant source one. Anybody have the dimension of the head and shank in metric.

    Or would anybody rent the tool out to me?

    Any help appreciated

    ---------- Post added at 02:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:31 PM ----------



    Should also mention the slot is decent and out of all the time we spent on it the screwdriver only slipped once. So at least the slot is decent. Just dont think the screwdriver head is wide enough and not giving enough radial torque. Its 10mm wide, but is a taper head and i read it needs to be a flat parallel blade
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  3. #2
    Really Senior Member Alan de Enfield's Avatar
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    Penetrating fluid will only work on a metal bolt seized in a metal 'hole'.
    What you have probably done now is actually made the problem worse by giving the wood some more 'liquid; to absorb and expand ever further locking the bolt head in even tighter.

    I bought a flat-blade screwdriver with a long hexagonal shank.
    I cut off the handle leaving enough of the shank to put a socket on
    Extension bar.
    Found a socket that fitted - wrapped the butt in cloth and clamped it in a vice.


    Long T-Bar ratchet and out it came.



    Crack it a bit, then re-tighten, crack it a bit more, re-tighten repeat until it becomes loose.


    Addendum - the flat blade was about 11 - 12mm across and fitted perfectly.
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    Last edited by Alan de Enfield; 08-26-2019 at 09:59 AM.
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

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    Really Senior Member capt14k's Avatar
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    Heat


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    Senior Member Scout Sniper's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice, will look at the driver and socket route.

    How do i get heat to the head of the bolt without burning the wood too much
    Last edited by Scout Sniper; 08-26-2019 at 10:11 AM.

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    Really Senior Member Alan de Enfield's Avatar
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    The actual butt-bolt is very roughly (I cannot get to my Calipers at the moment)

    Shank 12mm diameter,
    Head 18mm diameter (so up to an 18mm wide screwdriver will fit)
    Slot width 3mm
    Slot depth 2mm
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    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

  8. Thank You to Alan de Enfield For This Useful Post:


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    Really Senior Member Alan de Enfield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scout Sniper View Post
    Thanks for the advice, will look at the driver and socket route.

    How do i get heat to the head of the bolt without burning the wood too much
    I would try to avoid the heat and go for the 'socket' first.

    If the forend is removed you could heat the end of the butt-bolt where it comes thru the butt-socket, but personally I'd be wary of overheating it and the backend of the action before the heat actually got up the bolt to the top of the bolt, as the wood would act as a heat sink.


    I had considered suggesting putting a blow torch 'down the butt-bolt hole' to burn off the penetrating fluid and maybe 'scorch the wood a bit', but I think that would be the last resort.


    Go for the brute force method.
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

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    Really Senior Member capt14k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan de Enfield View Post
    I would try to avoid the heat and go for the 'socket' first.

    If the forend is removed you could heat the end of the butt-bolt where it comes thru the butt-socket, but personally I'd be wary of overheating it and the backend of the action before the heat actually got up the bolt to the top of the bolt, as the wood would act as a heat sink.


    I had considered suggesting putting a blow torch 'down the butt-bolt hole' to burn off the penetrating fluid and maybe 'scorch the wood a bit', but I think that would be the last resort.


    Go for the brute force method.
    I agree. Also carefully heat. I use one of my plumbing torches with turbo tip when heating up a screw or bolt to get it to loosen. Usually just enough to break up any rust.


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    Senior Member Scout Sniper's Avatar
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    Thats a great amount of information, thank you.

    Was thinking as i cant find a screwdriver nice and wide i might precisely gring up a cold chisel to fit as the body will also fit in a socket!

    Looking at the picture of the bolt head, my only saving grace is the head depth is actually quite shallow so really is a fairly small section being gripped by the wood.
    Last edited by Scout Sniper; 08-26-2019 at 11:00 AM.

  12. #9
    Really Senior Member Alan de Enfield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scout Sniper View Post
    Looking at the picture of the bolt head, my only saving grace is the head depth is actually quite shallow so really is a fairly small section being gripped by the wood.
    5mm Head depth
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

  13. #10
    Senior Member Scout Sniper's Avatar
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    Cheers,

    Quick question... is the shank of the bolt a tight fit in the stock or is it just the head??

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