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  1. #11
    Contributing Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    Not with 35 grit
    35 grit or have beaver gnaw at it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunray View Post
    Even a band saw would be better than a chisel.
    I can assure you a sharp chisel in the hands of a craftsmen is far superior to a bandsaw.
    The only time a gunstock should see a belt sander is for rough shaping.
    A mill? Do you mean a finger plane and a good assortment of files?
    No bandsaw used on this one. Just chisels, finger plane, a tiny drawl knife and a scraper.




    Same here..

    And here,,,, This one is still in the shop otherwise I could show another example of stock repair perfection. Half done will have to do.



    Just for fun, this was a 70 stock in for an Oil finish.


    For posterity, the Remington model 17 20g shotgun butt completed minus the oil finish.


    Last edited by WarPig1976; 10-03-2019 at 05:47 PM.

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  4. #12
    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarPig1976 View Post
    a sharp chisel
    Yup that's what I intended to use. I'm heading over to Rockler tomorrow to grab a small cabinet scraper as well. That's some beautiful work!

    This was my first try at checkering..



    That was on a scrap stock that I use for practice. That is also an RLO finish
    Last edited by usabaker; 09-27-2019 at 10:49 PM.
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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunray View Post
    Not if you have, or have access, to a belt sander. Or a mill.
    That's really sort of an overkill for something that only .05" deep. Shaving it off with a chisel is precise. In the end, less work and less of a chance to-go ops.. Even then it would only take a few cuts to get the job done.
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  9. #14
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarPig1976 View Post
    35 grit or have beaver gnaw at it.
    It's not quite that bad...but it could be. I'd be careful.

    I had an M1icon rifle lower stock group here that was the over size fat replacement and I wanted more of a WW2 look to the wood...so I hogged until it was down and then reduced until it was a smooth as they should be...pretty easy too.
    Regards, Jim

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    Contributing Member usabaker's Avatar
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    I decided to just shave off the initials since I'm going to finish the stock. I removed the old oil with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol using a paintbrush and rag. Cleaned the checkering using the same and a rifle cleaning nylon brush.

    Then used a 1" wood chisel to work down past the initials. Using the wood chisle made it easy to follow the original shape of the grip as it was not flat. After I got the initial out, I followed using carding steels to smooth out the cuts, blend it in, and brake the edges. I then burnished everything with a piece of card stock.

    I'll be steaming the dents next and after cleaning it up and de-whiskering it with bronze wool.

    Last edited by usabaker; 10-06-2019 at 08:59 PM.
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  12. #16
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    About perfect, no one would ever guess.
    Regards, Jim

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  14. #17
    Contributing Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    Looking good....

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  16. #18
    Really Senior Member Salt Flat's Avatar
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    Warpig, Nice work-- I am wondering what glue you are using? I've tried several types and like Elmers Max wood glue the best. It will take a stain and is very strong. What do you think? Salt flat

  17. #19
    Contributing Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    Elmer's is good stuff, I use too. Depends on what and where but for the most part I use Acraglass on stocks. It can be cut without consequences to strength. It can be tinted any color using oil based artist paint. It's polyester based so it doesn't get brittle. There's a list of stuff why I think it's the best choice but bottom line is it's good stuff.

  18. #20
    Really Senior Member Salt Flat's Avatar
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    Warpig -- Thanks, I was just curious-- I've used Acraglass too. Salt Flat

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