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  1. #1
    Really Senior Member HOOKED ON HISTORY's Avatar
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    Nickel Plating removal Help!

    I obtained a otherwise nice Type 44 some of who's component parts have been nickel plated. It appears to be nickel only (not chrome as no copper below).
    Does anyone have any suggestions on removal? I do not want to media blast as I am hoping what is exposed will hopefully match the patina of the un-plated parts.
    Read somewhere that aceatone will soften the nickel.


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    Contributing Member rcathey's Avatar
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    Pretty amazing timing!
    I'm researching the same issue for a prewar PPK I just picked up.

    Following along with interest!

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    Really Senior Member Sunray's Avatar
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    I very much doubt you'll be able to save the patina. However, Caswell Plating says their MetalX Stripper will strip nickle plating without hurting the metal. That likely does not apply to patina, but you could ask 'em.
    This is an old, old post on their forum on the subject. Post #7, 8 and 9.
    https://forum.caswellplating.com/for...nickel-plating
    Spelling and Grammar count!

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Patina? Not under plating. It was already stripped to plate so there's nothing to match. You're going to have a raw metal when you're finished.
    Regards, Jim

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    Really Senior Member HOOKED ON HISTORY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by browningautorifleicon View Post
    Patina? Not under plating. It was already stripped to plate so there's nothing to match. You're going to have a raw metal when you're finished.
    That is what I thought. This thing is somewhat of an anomaly. I will try to snap some photos this week end. The bayonet and nose piece have been plated but most of it is gone leaving sort of a patina not blue not rust. The receiver has no plating with the same patina, The butt plate has a light coating as does the bolt release and the rear portion of the trigger guard and the barrel under the handguard. The numbers all match including the furniture.
    I do not want to reblue and am comfortable with what I am calling patina. Photos forthcoming.

    ---------- Post added at 03:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:12 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by rcathey View Post
    Following along with interest!
    Midway USAicon has a good video on youtube that might work for you if you are going to refinish.

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    We had a large number of 1911 and A1s come from way down south, south America way... That was back in the '80s I think. Many were chromed or nickle plated too, all needed help. I had the dubious honor of glass beading them and got so I could do it in one go. The nickle showed as yellowish against the silver of the steel. It all has to come off to expose the steel though, a spot will remain silver after bluing or parkerizing. It would also show after time on patina...as a spot.
    Regards, Jim

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    Contributing Member rcathey's Avatar
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    I donít want to hijack the thread but I think weíre in similar situations.
    The plating on the PPK definitely appears to be over bluing. In spots where itís flaking, it sure looks like the bluing I'd expect.

    This will be a resale item for me so I donít intend to put a lot of money into it...and the plating isnít in bad shape overall.

    Just the fact that there appears to be a good finish under it and I can see by the lettering that it hasnít had the crap polished out of it.

    I wonder, can one plate over bluing? And if so, would the Brownells room temperature nickel remover take the theoretical bluing with it?

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    Contributing Member Doco overboard's Avatar
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    I stripped nickle one time from some parts. The stripper wouldn't remove the copper wash that was plated on first. On good advice from the forum I just glass beaded the parts to get them where I needed them.

    I was disappointed at first for spending the money for the stripper but was able to save it and use it for some other parts that were chromed. What I did find out later on after boiling some them off for a new finish was that they had to go in to the blast cabinet anyway because of discoloration after application of the finish.

    Next time I can just use the cabinet for dressing small parts or even larger ones for that matter without worrying about destroying them completely or ruining small marks. In some instances the markings became even more clear now that I think about it.
    A popular suppliers product was used to remove the finish on this Kragicon receiver. it worked exactly as advertised less the copper wash.

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    Saw a guy last week end toting a fully pimped (chrome plated) AR-15 pistol. Ugliest gun I have ever seen. I did not make me sad like seeing a WWII Luger bring back given the pimp dip. Or my Nazi Red Cross Hewer that someone put the Bowie point on the end of.
    Different days I suppose.
    Last edited by HOOKED ON HISTORY; 12-20-2019 at 08:07 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doco overboard View Post
    without worrying about destroying them completely or ruining small marks. In some instances the markings became even more clear now that I think about it.
    What we found too, the small details are enhanced after all the crap is beaded out of them, nice and clear after.
    Quote Originally Posted by rcathey View Post
    I wonder, can one plate over bluing
    I think you'd end up with what you see, flaking and a lack of adhesion.
    Quote Originally Posted by HOOKED ON HISTORY View Post
    my Nazi Red Cross Hewer that someone put the Bowie point on the end of.
    Guess he wanted to make a "Proper" fighting knife out of it...
    Regards, Jim

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