Hello everyone. I have a Longbranch No 4 Mk 1* that is in quite good condition other than the fact it seems a previous owner removed a bit too much material from the trigger guard bushing. I’ve come to this opinion for two reasons. First, when tightening the trigger guard screw, the first stage will eventually disappear the more the screw is tightened down. It never tightens against the bushing before the first stage has long disappeared. Second, I’ve acquired a NOS bushing and it is about .115” longer than the one currently on the rifle.

Now to the point of this post. In reading Mr. Laidlericon’s write up about getting the length of the bushing right I am a bit confused in a couple places. Here’s the pertinent section quoted.

“The COLLAR. You MUST have a collar and spring washer. This is what WE used to do. Put the front trigger guard screw into the trigger guard and body WITHOUT the washer or collar. Reverse it (that’s anti-clockwise .....) until you hear it click over the start thread and tighten it BUT COUNT THE TURNS UNTIL IT TIGHTENS AND LOCKS?”

It’s the words in bold text that have me stumped. With the bushing and washer removed and forend in place I never get to a state I would consider “locked”. I’ve read about any post I could dig up via search but could not find anything to clear it up for me. In the context of this discussion what exactly is meant by “locked”?

When the “body” is referenced is that the forend? Do you remove the wood and count turns until the screw bottoms out? Leave the wood in place but no bushing and crank down on the screw until it’s good and tight? I’m afraid of bending the trigger guard if I do that.

Thanks for any assistance.

Jim
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