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  1. #1
    Member RogueAussie's Avatar
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    Question SMLE Mk III* Reload Information

    Ok, so I have a heap of PPU 174gr FMJ factory ammunition just as starter ammo for the new old rifle and I plan to keep the PPU cases to reload as from what I've read they reload very well. What I'm trying to ascertain is a good starting load for my reloads.

    I've done quite a bit of investivating across various forums and websites and while the 180gr SP sound to be a good choice for hunting, I only plan on using this as a range rifle and have leant towards the Sierra 174gr HPBT. The load I have come up woth on paper from my reading is:

    Sierra 174gr HPBT on 41.0gr AR2208 (~2400 fps)

    Can anyone recommend anything similar using the 174gr pills. I'm not shooting F class, just targets at the range, so I want something reasonably accurate and of course saving a few $$$ reloading.

    For those that aren't sure of powder equivalents, check this page out: ADI Powder Equivalents

    Thanks!

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    Contributing Member CINDERS's Avatar
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    46gns AR 2209 is what I use 2208 is to sharp in the recoil 09 is slower as always start 4-5Gns under this and work up I will state I am not responsible for any mishap using this data as no offence I don't know you or your reloading practices its given in good faith it works in my rifles very well with SMK's having won numerous competitions with it. And in a world of save a*rses and I'll sue you to death world I aint gunna be responsible for the data being used by anyone. I TTL, FLS the cases if they are in my 2 No.4's or MkIII the Sniper T has its own brass that is only TTL and neck sized. I uniformed all the pockets, tumble, sonic clean, the use my AMP annealing machine on all the cases, RP cases with BR-2 primers its allot of work but I know I have the best ammo I can load.
    I was doing the bullet run out on the 303's as well but that just took up too much time besides when your running 3 eff class rifles, 1 optical rifle + a full bore one they need that 1/2 MOA ammo to be competitive, at times I feel married to the press and not my wife though I have trained her to load her own ammo but she reckons my reloads work better for her Hmmm I think there is some trickery going on there......????????????????

    I was using WIN-760 but whilst it worked OK I was not liking the recoil harmonics (I'm not gun shy having fired a fair few rounds out of my mates 460 Weatherby Mag including 2 rounds from a benchrest now that was nasty!)
    See Pics of the range day we did #1 my friends custom 460WM my stuffs in the background #2 460WM compared to a 22/250 round
    It metered well a very fine ball powder but you have to keep your loads above 80-85% case capacity think I suffered a flash over with this powder (detonation) luckily all held together thats why I ditched it too fine a ball powder a rather nasty experience about 10 years ago from memory.

    ATTENTION:
    Be wary of using equivilants as you can only rely on about it being within 5% of the powder your comparing it to if I compare I start at their minimum load going up in .2 of a grain at a time till I get a good group OCW ladder or pressure signs hit and if it still don't do the business scrap that powder thats why you only buy a kilo for the new powder.
    Been down this road allot since 1978.................
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    Last edited by CINDERS; 03-12-2020 at 02:56 AM.

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    Member RogueAussie's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info CINDERS, really helpful!

    I'm definately not new to reloading and do cover off on all case prep every reload except for trimming which happens every several reloads, but then again I'm not shooting comp.

    Using AR2209 would be preferrable as I already use it for my .270 and it would save having another powder on the shelf though in saying that I'm not concerned about the recoil of AR2208 powder.

    You've definately given me some info to work with and I appreciate it!

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    Contributing Member CINDERS's Avatar
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    Understand not shooting comp but TTL is very important as you only have to have one case that is a bit to long goes into the chamber with the camming action of the bolt forcing it in to far and then effectively putting a crimp on the very end of the neck & projie and you then have a set up of a serious pressure spike I use the Lee Ezi trim as you can have it set up in the station (Progressives) and do that part whilst resizing.

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    Really Senior Member Sunray's Avatar
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    Start by slugging the barrel. I'm not sure if Australia had somewhat vague ideas of what bore/groove diameters meant or not, but there are lots of .311" and .312" bullet around. And that assumes your rifle is Australianicon made. Mine is not.
    Prvi uses .311". So does Sierra. Hornady uses .312".
    Then just work up the load using ADI's(who make several powders for Hodgdon) data and you'll be fine.
    "...Be wary of using equivalents..." Forget equivalents altogether.
    Spelling and Grammar count!

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    Member RogueAussie's Avatar
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    It is a Britishicon barrel made by V.S.M and stamped H.V. for the MkVII upgrade. I haven't borescoped it but eyeballing it it looks clean and in good condition.

    At the recommndation I am staying away from equivalents but I still have a good start point for 2208 and 2209 which is great!

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    Contributing Member CINDERS's Avatar
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    Dont be too alarmed at the fire cracking see pic of a section of my 1944 T barrel its part of what they are given the period and useage of them as they were making replacements faster than the losses in the end.
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    .303 loads

    N140. 38.4g 174g heads.
    H4895. 40g. 174g heads
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    Contributing Member Micheal Doyne's Avatar
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    This works well for me in my No4, but each to their own and and work up from minimum levels.

    CCI bench rest primers
    PPU brass, fire formed and neck sized
    40.5grns N140
    SMK 174grn

    I recommend decent brass prep, find your chamber length and trim to it. I remove the spent primers then wet tumble with steel media, using dish soap and a little dishwasher rinse aid, followed by a decent fresh water rinse.


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