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Thread: 2A1 Ishapore terrible accuracy + other problems

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  1. #1
    Member FLOPPY_DISK's Avatar
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    2A1 Ishapore terrible accuracy + other problems

    I have a 2A1 Ishapore that has a number of issues I am looking to fix.

    1. The trigger has a lot of play, over 1/8" from side to side. It seems the trigger guard assembly is rather wide. Should I try bending the housing it or shim it with something, or is there something else to prevent the wobble?

    2. Group size at 50 yards is about 2 feet. I took the rifle apart and it does not seem to be missing any parts. It does seem that the end of the barrel is making contact with the side of the nose cap at about 1 o'clock. Where should I look first for the source of this problem?

    3. Trigger pull is terrible. It must be 10 pounds.

    3. I set the rear sights at 200 meters(As low as they go) and the recoil from one shot causes them to jump up to 400 meters



    4. Is there a recoil pad that fits this buttstock well, or do I need to read up on how to make one? Recoil with the aluminum butt plate on this thing is way worse than my 12Ga shotgun.



    I want to make this my go-to .308 rifle, but right now my pump action shotgun firing slugs is superior in every way.

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    Really Senior Member Alan de Enfield's Avatar
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    Is this one of those 'Ethiopan' ones that have recently become available, selling at prices that good conditions ones make ?
    Does it have any markings showing DP, ZF or similar on it ?

    Pictures would help.
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

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    Contributing Member 30Three's Avatar
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    Sounds like it needs a thorough going over; preferably by a professional who knows Enfield Riflesicon.
    You shouldn't need to bend anything.
    The rear sight problem will probably be a weak spring in the rear sight slide.

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    Member FLOPPY_DISK's Avatar
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    Ethiopia? I hope not! Cosmetically it is not in terrible shape, as far as I can tell.

    The gap between the trigger and guard is over .3mm and the surfaces are not exactly parallel either.













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    Last edited by FLOPPY_DISK; 10-05-2020 at 05:43 PM.

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    If I were to buy a copy of "The 2012 Complete Book on Lee Enfield Accurizing", would that have all the info I need to fix it up myself?
    I like to do things myself and not spend a lot of money, but I know that some experience is hard-won. Is there an Enfield expert near San Diego who could take a look at it?

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    Really Senior Member Alan de Enfield's Avatar
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    One of your problems is that the forend is split and there is a chunk of wood missing around the front trigger guard screw.
    The draws do not look to be in the best of condition and look as if they have already been cut out and replaced once.

    What does the 'back-end' of the forend look like (any splits) ?
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

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    Member FLOPPY_DISK's Avatar
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    Oh, should there be a block of wood above the screw hole?
    What exactly are "the draws" in this instance? I am not familiar with the term.

    If by back-end, you mean the part that is closest to the stock when put together: there are cracks going through the wood, but there is a metal band with a pin through it wrapping around the back-end. I would hazard a guess that is OK?

    I appreciate the assistance.

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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Also, is the area the trigger actually sits in sprung outwards? Hard to see but it looks bowed wide. Yes, the draws seem a bit...hammered. That's the back end inside where it's chipped.
    Regards, Jim

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    Really Senior Member Alan de Enfield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLOPPY_DISK View Post
    Oh, should there be a block of wood above the screw hole?
    What exactly are "the draws" in this instance? I am not familiar with the term.

    If by back-end, you mean the part that is closest to the stock when put together: there are cracks going through the wood, but there is a metal band with a pin through it wrapping around the back-end. I would hazard a guess that is OK?

    I appreciate the assistance.
    The draws are marked in 'red' and is the area that absorbs the recoil. If they become damaged due to 'something wrong' somewhere else, then each firing means they get worse and worse. They are not 'that bad' but are certainly not in the best of condition.

    The area marked in yellow is where a piece of wood is missing. This allows the wood to move under recoil which could be as a result of damaged draws.

    Can you post a photo of the back end of the forend (yes - where the strap goes across) if this is split it could be as a result of incorrect order of disassembly of the woodwork.

    It would appear that you may have 3 areas of damage all related to holding the action tightly in the woodwork, all affecting accuracy.

    Everything on Enfield's is 'linked' and doing anything in the wrong order can result in damage.

    Don't panic - All are repairable if you have good carpentry skills.
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    Last edited by Alan de Enfield; 10-06-2020 at 04:27 AM.
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

  12. #10
    Member FLOPPY_DISK's Avatar
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    Yes, it does seem to be sprung outwards. Perhaps that is a factory defect, or some strange abuse happened to it. I am guessing that the steel is not too brittle and that it would it be best to just install the pin to keep the holes aligned and bend it inward until it is touching the trigger on both sides, or should there be some gap?

    I need to be more thorough next time I buy something used...

    So it looks like I need to replace the missing block of wood and then possibly remove and replace the damaged draws with new ones? Is it possible it will shoot well without reworking the draws, or would it be better to replaced all of those parts at once?

    ---------- Post added at 01:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:07 AM ----------



    Is there a good resource that I should read or watch regarding this sort of rifle stock repair? At least, is there a preferred type of wood that should be used for the replacement parts?

    ---------- Post added at 01:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:16 AM ----------

    Also, what do you mean by wrong order?

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